Maine is a beautiful state with stunning coastlines, picturesque towns, and lush forests. This 21-day itinerary will take you through the highlights of Maine, from the vibrant cities to the serene wilderness.
I'd visited Maine as a kid with my family. The highlight of the trip was going out on a breakwater where the lobster fishermen were cleaning out their traps. They threw a bunch of live sea urchins, starfish, etc. up to us. Little did any of us know my kid brother decided he'd take them home and keep them as pets. He stashed them in the trunk of our car on that unseasonably hot summer day.
When we got to Customs, the customs official opened the trunk, took one whiff, slammed the trunk shut and shouted to my dad "YOU CAN GO!"
We cleared Customs in record breaking time - and then spent the next 2 days at a laundromat and car dealership trying to get the stench out of everything we'd packed and the car trunk.
That's what I remember about my childhood trip to Maine so I was kind of glad Jay's finger had landed on Maine when blindly pointing to the map in that atlas. We could eliminate the laundromat and car dealership this time around and I could remember more of Maine than that trip to the breakwater.
DAYS 1-3: PORTLAND
Our road trip to Maine was done on a whim
Jay had just gotten his new RV when he said "Let's do a road trip to break it in"
I said "OK! Where we going?"
He pulls out an atlas, closes his eyes, points a finger on the map and it lands on Maine.
"Good choice!" I said.
So we packed the RV and went on a 21 day Maine road trip.
(Oh the joys of being retired old farts!)
Most people can't afford the luxury of taking off for 3 weeks due to their jobs but I've found a handy dandy tool to help you plan a road trip for however many days you can afford to get away! It will plan your itinerary for you!
It was developed by Vitaliy, the Nature Seeker for his travel blog. Just enter where you want to travel to and for how many days and it will plan an itinerary for you!
Photo credit: Visit Maine
Visit the Old Port District
The cobblestone streets, mix of 19th-century brick architecture, fishing piers and hilly streets leading to the water create an authentic port atmosphere while shops, boutiques, galleries, restaurants and bars lend travel appeal that ranks amongst the best in New England. From an early morning walk through the quaint streets to experiencing the vibrant nightlife, the Old Port combines a small town feel with elements of a world class city. The location on the southeast side of the Portland peninsula, overlooking the wide mouth of the Fore River, makes for a cozy, scenic and charming oasis that feels like one's own discovery.
Today's Old Port has become the heart of an overall great city -- a blessing for locals and a must-see for any New England travelers.
I did find an inexpensive self guided Old Port audio tour for $7.75 per person here.
We then found a rather unique way to tour Portland...a vintage fire truck! $42 per person.
The truck is open air (but covered with a canopy) and you listen to live narration as you tour the city.
Learn about Portland’s maritime past as you explore cobblestone streets with enjoy plenty of time to browse souvenir shops and sample the area’s most distinctive foods.
Both our drive and guide were extremely knowledgeable and interesting to listen to.
The tour finished in downtown Portland.
Visit Head Light
Photo credit: Benjamin Williamson
Portland Head Light is an historic lighthouse in Cape Elizabeth. The light station sits on a headland at the entrance of the primary shipping channel into Portland Harbor, which is within Casco Bay in the Gulf of Maine. Completed in 1791, it is the oldest lighthouse in Maine.
We timed our visit to Portland Head Light to coincide with Maine Open Lighthouse Day. This popular annual event, which is sponsored by the American Lighthouse Foundation, the United States Coast Guard, and the Maine Office of Tourism, attracts between 15,000 to 18,000 visitors each year and offers the general public the rare opportunity to climb and learn about more than a dozen historic Maine lights.
We got our cardio workout that day as one must climb 95+ steps to reach the top of the lighthouse tower.
There's also the Keeper's house containing a museum that tells the history of Portland Head Light through a variety of exhibits that display different artifacts and documents, navigational aids, Fresnel lenses, models, and photographs.
Photo credit: Portland Head Light Museum
Adjacent to the light house is Fort Williams Park, a 90 acre tract offering a wide range of recreational activities for visitors. You can enjoy a picnic, fly kites, walk along pathways, explore the rocky beach, tour the Arboretum, take a walk on the cliffside loop, or explore the 1 1/2 acre Children's Garden. Before your visit, you can print out a scavenger hunt or pick it up at the Greeter’s Shed, located in Central Parking. Three food vendors – Gorgeous Gelato, Bite Into Maine, and C-Salt offer a variety of delicious food options, such as lobster rolls, sandwiches, salads, and gelato.
Park staff lead free walking tours at 11 AM daily, weather permitting. The 35-minute talk along the one-mile Cliff Walk Trail includes eight stops featuring discussions on fort structures, native plants, shipwrecks, and lighthouses. Interested visitors should gather at the Greeter's Shed in Central Parking. Tours are limited to 25 people and are available on a first-come, first-served basis. They are not recommended for those with mobility issues.
Being big kids ourselves, we were anxious to check out the Children's Garden, especially the Wildflower Garden.
Photo credit: Friends of Fort Williams Park
Click here to download the Presentation Plan for the Children’s Garden (pdf).
Click here to download the Children’s Garden Plant List (pdf).
This 1-1/2 acre garden is designed to let children explore their relationship with nature. If you have kids, you might want to make this garden one of your road trip stops.
On Day 2 we explored more of Cape Elizabeth and the Two Lights State Park. Opened in 1961, the park encompasses 41-acres of rocky headlands. Standing high above the rocky coast and rolling surf, visitors have sweeping views of Casco Bay and the open Atlantic.
The park’s name originated from the twin lighthouses located nearby at the end of Two Lights Road. Built in 1828, these were the first twin lighthouses on the coast of Maine.
Just a head's up: If you're going to explore this shoreline wear non-slip walking shoes and stay at least 20 feet back from the surf rolling in! Also bring warm clothing as ocean breezes cool off the park in the afternoon.
Picnic tables situated on the hills facing the ocean afford visitors spectacular views of the ocean while enjoying an afternoon barbecue or clambake.
Lobster Shack outdoor dining overlooking the ocean
Since the Lobster Shack was right there, we grabbed a couple of lobster rolls for lunch and ate at one of the outdoor picnic tables overlooking the ocean.
Tip: When a Maine food menu says an item is "Market Price" be sure to ask what the current market price is so that you'll know exactly what you're paying.
The Lobster Shack is located at 225 Two Lights Rd., Cape Elizabeth.
We spent the remainder of the day just exploring Two Lights State Park at a leisurely pace and topped off Day 2 with a dinner at Eventide Oyster Company. Note that most of their seating is on a first come, firest served basis although reservations should be made for parties of 6 or more.
In keeping with the Nor'easter spirit we ordered the New England Clam Bake: Steamers, mussels, lobster tail, potatoes, salt pork and a hard boiled egg nestled into a bed of rock seaweed. Served with drawn butter and nori vinaigrette. MARKET PRICE
Tip: When ordering anything that says MARKET PRICE ask what the current market price is so that you know exactly what you're paying and that it is actually the current market price.
Photo credit: Eventide Oyster Co.
Believe me, order the New England Clam Bake and you won't be leaving the table hungry!
86 Middle Street, Portland
On Day 3 we rode the Casco Bay Ferry over to Peaks Island to explore it. The ferry ride is 17 minutes one way. We took our own bicycles along, our fare was $14 each round trip. Several rental shops are available near the ferry terminal, offering a variety of bikes if not bringing your own bike.
Rental rates typically range from $15 to $30 per day, depending on the type of bike and rental duration.
Map credit: Google Maps
Once known as the Coney Island of Maine, and later an important WW II outpost, Peaks Island today is a neighborhood within the city of Portland. Home to artists, retirees, commuters of all sorts and a substantial summer population, Peaks Island boasts a small town feel with unparalleled ocean views and access. Fourteen daily departures (17 minutes one way) from Portland make Peaks an ideal, family friendly destination.
Peaks Island Photo credit: The Free Press
While you can certainly tour Peaks Island on foot, the island has 2 beautiful bike trails. One is a coastal ride all the way around the island, the other is an interior island ride. We did the coastal ride all the way around the island, then after a brief rest at the Down Front ice cream shop, we headed down the inland trail.
While biking around the island we did stop at the Fifth Maine Regiment Museum.
The Fifth Maine Regiment Memorial Hall was built in 1888 by the veterans of the Fifth Maine Volunteer Regiment as a memorial and reunion hall. The iconic stained glass windows that honor the regiment soldiers were also a fundraising scheme to defray the cost of the building. The veterans created a quiet, almost sacred space where they gathered, reminisced, and drew comfort from each other. As time passed, the reunions grew smaller and smaller (the last one was in 1940), and the building fell into disrepair.
In 1956, The Fifth Maine Regiment building was given to the Peaks Island community by the descendants of the veterans who built it. Since then, restoration work has brought the building back to its former glory.
Today, the building houses the Fifth Maine Museum, a museum that tells two intriguing and related stories: the history of Peaks Island from its days as “The Coney Island of Maine” to its role in World War II, and the story of the Fifth Maine Regiment.
While not comprehensive, their Civil War exhibit presents a representative selection of the variety of weapons used by both North and South during the Civil War, which was pretty interesting.
It also contained some personal property of Confederate soldiers collected by the Fifth Maine as well.
You can tour the museum in about an hour.
Admission to the museum is $8/person, $20 for a family, and members get in free!
45 Seashore Ave,, Peaks Island
We also stopped at Battery Steele. Battery Steele (U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Battery Construction #102) is a United States military fortification on Peaks Island, Portland, Maine, in Casco Bay. Completed in 1942 as part of World War II, it is located on 14 acres (5.7 ha) on the oceanside area of the island, formerly part of the Peaks Island Military Reservation.
Civil War weapons exhibit
It was built to protect Casco Bay, particularly Portland harbor, from Kennebunk to Popham Beach in Phippsburg. Battery Steele is not only the largest gun battery built on Peaks Island, but also an example of the largest battery ever built anywhere in the United States.
Other coast defense structures on the island include fire control towers and the counterweight for a disappearing searchlight tower (it "disappeared" when folded down).
Battery Steele
Photo credit: Peaks Island Tours
There is an inexpensive guided tour of the island that' I'd recommend being there's so much history to this island, particularly pioneer and military history.
Peaks Island Tours offers 75 minute guided tours on 6 or 8 person electric golf carts.
Reservations are a must.
Tours typically depart 3 times a day from Forest City Landing.
Rates
Adults: $30.00
Seniors (65+): $22.00
Children (age 5-12): $11.00
Your dining options are pretty limited on the island but we stopped for lunch at Cockeyed Gull.
Fine dining in a laid back atmosphere. Superb service. $$-$$$
78 Island Avenue, Peaks Island
We ordered the special - jerk chicken bites with coconut rice and jicama slaw. Amazing!
Sitting on the deck and watching the boats on Casco Bay made it even more amazing.
We topped dinner off with the carrot cake. OMG to die for!
DAYS 4-5: FREEPORT & BRUNSWICK
We were up early to drive the 30 minutes to Freeport, located on the shores of Casco Bay.
Village of Freeport
This historic village is world-famous for our outdoor outfitters, shopping outlets, and local boutiques, particularly the LL Bean flagship store with its giant boot in front of the store.
If you're going to shop Freeport, check this deals page for discounts!
Most all parking in Freeport is FREE all day long. For our fellow RV'ers, they even have a special free lot for RV parking!
We arrived a little too early for Freeport's FREE fall festival, held the first weekend in October.
This 3 day festival held in downtown Freeport brings together over 225 of the best New England artists, makers and local food producers.
There's live music and also plenty of free activities for kids.
We had wanted to visit Eagle Island, home of famed Arctic and North Pole explorer Admiral
Robert E. Peary but a storm had damaged the island so it was closed for repairs. So we decided to go to Bradbury Mountain State Park instead.
Bradbury Mountain State Park is a wonderful place to spend a day or afternoon exploring trails, taking in the magnificent view from the summit, or enjoying a picnic under a canopy of trees. Situated on Route 9 about halfway between Portland and Lewiston-Auburn, the park attracts visitors who enjoy picnicking, hiking and camping on its 800 acres of forested land. Bradbury Mountain is the only state park in southern Maine to offer shared-use trails for horseback riders, mountain bikers and snowmobilers.
Bradbury Mountain is open all-year, from 9am till sunset (unless otherwise posted).
Fees:
Adult non resident: $6.00
Adult Maine resident: $4.00
Senior non resident: $2.00
Children 5 - 11 years old: $1.00; Children under 5 are free. All fees are payable in cash.
The next day we drove the 15 minutes to Brunswick.
We began our day biking the Androscoggin Bike Path, a 2.6-mile 14-foot wide paved bicycle/pedestrian path along the Androscoggin River.
The path offers scenic overlooks of the Androscoggin River while providing a pedestrian and bicycle connection between in-town Brunswick and the Cook’s Corner area. Located north of Route 1, the path can also be accessed from Topsham via bicycle/pedestrian lanes over the Merrymeeting Bridge.
The Androscoggin River Bicycle Path is located north of Route One. The access points are located at:
In town Brunswick: this entrance to the Bike Path is located at the east end of Water Street, just past the Water Street Boat Landing.
Cook’s Corner, Brunswick: this entrance is located at the end of Grover Lane; Driving northeast, Grover Lane is the first left from Old Bath Road, just after crossing over U.S. Route 1.
The Bike Path is open 24 hours a day year-round; the parking area at Water Street is open ½ hour before sunrise to ½ hour after sunset.
If you need to rent a bicycle, go to Gorham Bike & Ski at 88 Union Street in Brunswick.
We'd worked up an appetite biking so rode over to Brunswick Diner, that serves breakfast and lunch. This was our kind of place! A retro 50's diner in an old trailer, complete with jukeboxes at each table.
Photo credit: Brunswick Diner
I ordered the Tutti Fruitti - a Belgian waffle with berries.
Jay said he was "starving" so ordered a burger. I had to laugh at his eyes when he saw the size of that burger!
Both the food and the service was very good and the prices reasonable. $
After eating, we went to the Peary-MacMillan Arctic Museum at 9 Campus Rd S, Brunswick.
Among all the lower 48 states, the Peary- MacMillan Arctic Museum is the only facility dedicated to Arctic studies.
In the Museum lies some of the artifacts from the Arctic circle, including objects from different Innuit tribes, garments made of furs, and animal skin. You will also see the specimen of Arctic wildlife that has been preserved.
The Museum also features art made by the People of the Arctic Circle. These exhibits depict the brutal weather they learned to live under.
Admission is always open to the public without any charge.
We decided to take the afternoon off to rest and just go out for dinner that night.
I think we found the only German restaurant in Maine! Richard's Restaurant was a charming place in Brunswick, located at 115 Maine Street right in the middle of downtown Brunswick.
We ordered the German Sampler - a tasting of bratwurst, bauernwurst, gulasch, sauerbraten, both wiener & jägerschnitzel & all German side dishes.
$33.
It was delicious, the portions huge.
Richard's also has an extensive German beer and wine menu.
DAYS 6-8: BOOTHBAY HARBOR & CAMDEN
Boothbay Harbor is an hour from Brunswick.
Boothbay Harbor
To tour the town we hopped the free trolley. It stops at virtually every key point in town and you can hop on and hop off to explore.
To make the entire loop around town takes about an hour if you're not hopping on and off.
Trolley Operating Hours: Seven Days a Week, Mid-June - October 14
Hours 10:00 am – 5:00 pm
Photo credit: Ride the Trolley
The only thing I would warn is the about the bumpy terrain and lack of shocks in the Trolly but for free it is well worth getting jostled around a bit.
After touring the town we took a 3 hour schooner day sail with Schooner Eastwind Applejack.
Photo credit: Schooner Eastwind Applejack
The boat travels along the Maine coastline, where we saw lighthouses, fishing lobstermen, wildlife, and remote islands accessible only by boat. At only $55 per adult we felt we got our money's worth and then some.
We had such a relaxing time we returned the next evening for the sunset sail.
Tip: If you book online directly through their website, you'll get 5% off your online booking. Enter promo code
EARLY at checkout.
Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens
The fact that it was fall only enhanced the beauty of the Coastal Botannical Gardens. Visitors stroll on the walkways of 300 acres of beautifully designed landscapes, showcasing seasonal flowers and beautiful trees.
(Hey parents...this garden also has a Children's Garden! There's also a woodland Fairy House Village in the Lerner Garden of the Five Senses.)
Guests can enjoy informative guided tours and you can join fun activities like gardening workshops if you’re in the mood to learn more.
Tip: Book online prior to your visit and your ticket will cost you $4 less!
Adults: $25 online ($29 in-person)
Seniors (65+) & Veterans: $21 online ($25 in-person)
Students (18+ with Student ID): $16 online
Children (3-17): $9 online ($13 in-person)
Children under 3: Free
Our personal favorite was the Arbor Garden which is just stunning!
It was past lunchtime so we decided to give the botanical garden's Kitchen Garden Cafe a try.
Photo credit: Kitchen Garden Cafe
Located by the Great Lawn, the Café provides hot and cold food and beverage options, including salads, sandwiches, and seasonally rotating entrées.
We ordered their signature chicken salad sandwich which was excellent and above our expectations.
BOOTHBAY RAILWAY VILLAGE
Photo credit: Getaway Havens
Most people bypass the Railway Village on Route 27, thinking it's cheesy train ride around a fictional town.
Not so! The non-profit Railway Village is really worth an hour or two of your time.
George McEvoy rescued the Freeport Station – the first building to be relocated here, shipped in pieces – to start Maine’s very first railroad museum in 1965. There are two-dozen buildings on site, clustered around a narrow-gauge railroad track that McEvoy himself installed.
Each historic building holds some weird treasure. In one, find 1920’s “Mechanical Parables” – tiny dynamic tin morality plays that traveled with carnival sideshows. Push a button beneath each one and they move – like the “breathing” vagrant asleep on a park bench.
There are roughly 60 cars and fire trucks in another large pavilion. One is the limo that belonged to Thomas Edison’s widow, with a red chauffeur call-light on the roof. There’s also a pink 1957 Thunderbird – one man’s gift to his wife – a 1926 Harbor Register Newspaper truck, and Brud’s Hot Dog Cart. Brud was a Boothbay “institution,” who served up franks in good and bad weather for six decades (1943-2003).
It's an interesting and whimsical attraction.
Guided tours are available every Tuesday during normal museum hours. Train rides are also available.
ADMISSION $15 Adults 18-64 | $8 Children 3-17 | $12 Adults 65 plus years old | Under 3 Free
586 Wiscasset Road (Route 27), Boothbay Harbor
We spent the following day in Camden.
Camden
We happened to hit Camden just right as they were holding their annual Windjammer Festival.I've never seen so many boats in one place at one time.
We had a blast and spent the entire day at the Festival.
We took a walking tour of Camden, watched the windjammers arriving, watched a lobster hauling demonstration, attended a silent auction dinner, watched a schooner bum talent show and RC boat race, and listened to live music.
We were tempted to change our itinerary for the following day and skip either Rockland or Owl's Head and spend the 2nd day at the Festival.
Boats at Camden Harbor
We never etch our itinerary in stone and ultimately decided to skip either Rockland or Owl's Head and spend the second day at the Festival.
We started day 2 of the Festival with the Camden Rotary Club Pancake Breakfast, which was very good.
The rest of the day included a treasure hunt, a pooches and paddleboards race, a lobster crate race, a windjammer open house tour, West Bay Rotary Club Lobster Bake for dinner and the grand finale, a fireworks show over Penobscot Bay.
DAY 9: OWL'S HEAD (We skipped Rockland)
Imagine a place where the salty sea air mingles with the scent of pine trees, where the rugged coastline is dotted with lighthouses and lobster shacks, and where the pace of life slows down to match the gentle rhythm of the waves. This is Owls Head, a charming coastal gem in Maine. Nestled in the heart of the Midcoast region, this small town offers a unique blend of natural beauty, rich history, and quintessential New England charm.
I had a bit of a surprise in store for Jay during our day in Owl's Head. I'd booked him a ride on a glider with Spirit Soaring Glider Rides. Dave (pilot) was a pilot with Delta Airlines with 16,000 hours under his belt and he owns a 2 seater glider so it would be just he and Jay. (I'd flown in gliders before)
He'd take Jay to about 5,000 feet so he'd have a bird's eye view of Rockland and Owl's Head.
He got off that glider wearing an ear-to-ear smile. If you've never gone gliding, you have to give it a try.
OWL'S HEAD TRANSPORTATION MUSEUM
The Owl's Head Transportation Museum is one of the largest transportation museums I'd ever seen. They have everything from stagecoaches to Model T's to warplanes to you name it!
With its large collection of classic cars, motorcycles, and airplanes, the Owls Head Transportation Museum appeals to all ages. Most of the vehicles still run, and on any given day you might see the world’s only working Fokker C.IVA flashing its wide white wings overhead or, if you’re really lucky, catch a ride in the open cockpit of an antique biplane.
The admission fee varies with the type of visit so check their website for details. (We paid $5 each)
The museum is located at 117 Museum Street, Owl's Head
OWL'S HEAD GENERAL STORE
One of two buildings that comprise Owls Head village (the other is the red-roofed post office), the Owls Head General Store makes what many consider to be the best burger in the state. It was voted #1 burger in America by the Food Network. Order your Seven Napkin Burger to go (they make a mean crab roll, too, if that’s what you’re looking for). When your lunch is ready, head over to nearby Owls Head State Park for a picnic.
We couldn't believe there was a town that still had a General Store much less that it served the #1 burger in Maine. Jay went for it and had the 7 Napkin Burger that lived up to its name all the way around. I had a fantastic grilled cheese sandwich that was oozing cheese, just the way I like it.
The General Store is just the cutest place. We browsed the store while waiting for our sandwiches to be made.
I felt like I was stepping onto the TV set of the Waltons and Ike and Cora Beth's general store!
The store offers counter service and if you don't want to picnic in the nearby park then they have outdoor umbrella tables you can eat at.
OWL'S HEAD STATE PARK
After that 7 Napkin Burger Jay needed to walk so we headed over to Owl's Head State Park. According to local lore, Owls Head derived its name from 18th-century sailors who thought this headland resembled the head of an owl. We couldn't see it, but no matter: this is a glorious spot. Walk up to the white brick lighthouse perched on a cliff high above Penobscot Bay. Volunteers from Friends of Rockland Harbor Lights staff both the 162-year-old lighthouse and the keeper’s house, in which you’ll find a museum and gift shop.
Photo credit: Visit Maine
A small, old cemetery also is located on the state park land.
Open all year; 9:00 a.m. to sunset daily. No fees are charged at this location.
Four (4) miles off Route 73 on Lighthouse Road, Owl's Head.
OWL'S HEAD LOBSTER COMPANY
We had dinner at Owl's Head Lobster Company which is located right on the wharf.
We chose this establishment simply because we were told they'd caught very rare white calico lobsters and rather than cook them up, they sent them to the aquarium. Our kind of place!
Their lobsters are so fresh you can literally watch your dinner come right in off the lobster boats. However, NOTE THIS IS NOT A RESTAURANT!!! This is a lobster retailer so we bought our 2 lobsters and cooked them ourselves in the RV.
Photo credit: Owl's Head Lobster Co.
DAYS 10-12 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK
See my article under the National Parks series, Acadia National Park.
DAYS 13-15: ELLSWORTH & JONESPORT
These towns are considered to be in Downeast Maine.
Town of Ellsworth Photo credit: Visit Maine
Tucked along the coast of Maine, Ellsworth is one of those towns that quietly wins you over with its charm, character, and easygoing vibe. Whether you’re here for the scenic views or a little shopping in the historic downtown, it has a way of making you feel right at home. It's one of Maine's best kept secrets as visitors tend to drive right through it on their way to Acadia National Park, never stopping to explore it.
It’s a well-traveled hub, conveniently served by US Route 1, with connections to Bangor via Route 1A and Mount Desert Island and Acadia National Park via Route 3. That makes it a perfect stop for anyone touring the coast or heading deeper Downeast.
Once you arrive, Ellsworth is very walkable depending on where you stay. If you want more freedom, consider renting a bike or car from one of several providers.
Timber Tina's Great Lumberjack Show
Coming from Wisconsin's Northwoods where our towns were built by lumber companies, I had to see how one of Maine's lumberjack shows stacked up to our own. I have to admit Timber Tina's Lumberjack Show was every bit as good as our own lumberjack shows.
12 exciting events packed into an hour and 15-minute show. Axe throwing. Log Rolling. Underhand Chopping. Power Hot Sawing. Obstacle Pole Relay. Crosscut Sawing. Pole Climbing... And More! RAIN OR SHINE!
Tickets available at the show or ONLINE HERE.
$16.95 (adults 12-62), $15.95 (seniors 63+), $12.95 (children 4-11), and Under 4 is FREE. (Maine sales tax will be added.)
Visit the Telephone Museum
If you're into the quirky and unusual attractions, make a stop at the Telephone Museum.
You will see and even use old telephones of all types, switchboards and switching systems that powered the network. You can also check out the original electronics that eventually lead to the creation of computers and smartphones.
This place is fascinating for both technology geeks and regular people.
There was one other family there while we were, that had a couple of teenage kids. Jay and I were trying not to laugh out loud as these teens tried to figure out how a rotary phone worked. (They weren't even close to getting it right!) That phone happened to be an operating one...so Jay walked up to it, told one of the teens give him their cell phone number and he dialed the rotary phone and called them. (That phone did have an adapter on it to connect with a cell phone.) At any rate, they learned how a rotary phone worked and just the entertainment of watching them trying to figure out how a rotary phone worked was worth the stop itself!
Visitors can engage hands-on with real telephones and switchboards.
Admission is $10 for adults, $5 for kids. Discounts available for seniors.
The Telephone Museum is located at 166 Winkumpaugh Road in Ellsworth.
Take a train on the Downeast Scenic Railroad
Photo credit: Downeaster Railroad
You didn't think I'd pass this one up, didya?
Take a ride on the Downeast Scenic Railroad. You’ll travel the rails of the former Maine Central Railroad, where vintage train cars transport you through pine forests, rolling fields, and across sparkling waterways—all while immersing you in the rich heritage of Maine’s railway era.
Don’t miss your chance to step back in time and explore Maine as travelers once did—by rail.
The Downeast Scenic Railroad offers a wonderful 90 minute, 12-mile round-trip train ride from Hancock, Maine, through Ellsworth Falls, and across the Union River Bridge on the former Maine Central Railroad.
There are both enclosed cars and picnic table seating is available in the canopy-covered open-air car.
– Bottled water and snacks may be purchased on the train.
– Restroom facilities are available onboard.
– The train is handicap accessible. The train crew is available to lend a hand.
– Your family dog is welcome onboard as long as it is restrained and friendly.
Classic Train Ride Rates:
Adults (Ages 13+): $26.00
Seniors & Active Military: $24.00
Children (Ages 3-12): $14.00
Infants: Free
8 Railroad Siding Road, Hancock (Hancock is only 8 miles from Ellsworth)
Hiking Trails
The region around Ellsworth boasts numerous hiking trails that range from easy to challenging. One of the most popular hikes is in the Great Pond Mountain Preserve just outside of town. This preserve offers several trails with varying difficulty levels and spectacular views.
For a more moderate hike, try out a Frenchman Bay Conservancy trail, which takes you through scenic forests and allows you to enjoy amazing vistas.
Cycling Tours
Cycling is another great way to experience Ellsworth’s natural beauty while staying active. Several biking tours are available, including the Acadia National Park tour that takes you through stunning coastal landscapes and rocky shores.
Another option is the Downeast Sunrise Trail, which stretches across eastern Maine and provides an unparalleled view of tidal estuaries, historic landmarks, and wildlife habitats.
Kayaking
If you love exploring waterways, kayaking in Ellsworth might be perfect for you. Paddle along the Taunton Bay Estuary where you can witness sea turtles basking and even spot seals sunbathing on rocky beaches.
Alternatively, try kayaking through the beautiful Blue Hill Bay with a guided tour provided by one of the local shops.
Fishing
Photo credit: das_canoe
Graham Lake is a hidden gem for outdoor enthusiasts in Ellsworth. This large freshwater lake spans over 7,800 acres, providing plenty of space for kayaking, fishing, and other water activities.
Fishing on Graham Lake is a popular activity. The lake is teeming with fish species, including bass, pickerel, and perch. Whether you prefer shore fishing or casting from a boat, you’re likely to have a productive day on the water.
Access via multiple points, including Graham Lake Road, Ellsworth.
Knowlton Park
Photo credit: City of Ellsworth
Knowlton Park is really the social hub of Ellsworth because there's always something going on there.
Knowlton Park is a hub of community activity in Ellsworth. This vibrant park offers open green spaces, walking paths, and fun features for all ages. Throughout the year, it hosts a variety of events that bring the community together.
During summer, the park comes alive with outdoor concerts, movie nights, and festivals. Local musicians perform on the park’s stage, creating a lively atmosphere. Seasonal events like the Pumpkin Festival and holiday light displays make it a year-round destination.
Families love Knowlton Park for its splash pad, which is perfect for cooling off on warm days. (HOURS: 10am to 8pm (7 days a week) – Water is on and the jets are active during these hours except for when the air temperature falls below 65 degrees!) There's also a changing facility.
The park also has a well-maintained playground and plenty of picnic areas. Its wide-open spaces make it ideal for flying kites, tossing a frisbee, or simply relaxing in the sun.
We bought some picnic goodies and a bottle of wine and just relaxed having a picnic while soaking up the sun. The park is FREE, no admission required.
160 State Street, Ellsworth
Jonesport, Maine, is a bona fide, way-way down east Maine lobstering village with a salty disposition and a stunning location. Not many tourists, other than birders and escape artists, veer off Route 1 on Route 187, which loops down 11 miles to the village, then back up another 11 miles. Ahhh, but it’s worth it if you seek an elusive vision of the real Maine. Jonesport doesn’t get much more Maine or real, as long as you’re not looking for the gentrified version.
Cross the bridge onto Beals Island to the Nature Conservancy’s magical 1,576-acre Great Wass Island Preserve, where you can hike or birdwatch. The preserve is home to rare plants and even rarer coastal peat bogs, and its varied habitat makes it rich in birdlife.
Coastal Cruises to Mistake Island & Moose Peak
Photo credit: Coastal Cruises
Mistake Island and Moose Peak Light is accessible only by sea. Dating from 1826, Moose Peak was rebuilt in 1888 after severe pummeling by Atlantic storms. It's still operated by the U.S. Coast Guard, now with an automated solar light and on-demand foghorn.
We booked Coastal Cruises to view Mistake Island and Moose Peak Light - weather permitting and the weather cooperated that day.
On our cruise, we saw where pink granite blocks as big as refrigerators were loaded onto schooners bound for Boston and New York and the lost town of Sealand, where lilac and apple trees still mark the old homesteads. We also discovered where Samuel de Champlain anchored in the early 1600s while mapping Maine for the French king Henri IV.
The Dorothy Helen is a flat bottomed skiff that can get into hard-to-reach coves and inlets, across shallows where bigger boats can't navigate, to discover natural beauty that most people will never see.
Because the skiff is quiet, we pulled right up to seals sunbathing on a ledge.
The skiff only holds 3 passengers so we basically had a private tour.
Our hosts were Capt. Laura Fish, a U.S. Coast Guard certified captain, our guide to the natural beauty of Moosabec Reach and its islands. Harry Fish, her brother, piloted us through cruising grounds he has known all his life. With thousands of
hours of sea time between them, the duo have operated Coastal Cruises for 31 years.
Laura and Harry are descendants of Thomas Kelley, who in 1772 settled the part of Jonesport where their families still live.
Coastal Cruises charges per 3 hour cruise, not per passenger. The cost of the 3 hour cruise is a flat $225.
And if you wish to customize your cruise they will do so at no extra charge.
To book: Call (207) 598-7473
DAYS 16 - 17: BANGOR FROM ELLSWORTH/JONESPORT
City of Bangor Photo credit: Guide to Bangor, Maine
Bangor is a 30 minute drive from Ellsworth. And what is Bangor known for? C'mon, I know that you know the answer to this one! How about this author? The infamous Stephen King.
Stephen King Photo credit: Eventbrite
Bangor was throwing a birthday bash for King so we got in on the action at a downtown carnival and Bangor-area beer garden.
The Stephen King-themed old time carnival included a variety of games and crafts, including making paper boats out of newspaper and seeing if they float at the "We All Float" booth or posing for pictures with a life-size cutout of Stephen King at the "Stand By Me" picture booth ... and many more.
At 3 pm there was a Pet Cemetery parade in which pet owners dressed up their pets as characters from King's books and movies. It was a hoot!
From 4 to 8 pm the Derry Beer Garden was in full swing. Brews from 2 Feet Brewing, Blaze, Geaghan's, Naiad, Sea Dog and other Derry, Maine-area breweries were on tap, and each ticket holder will got a one-of-a-kind souvenir Derry, Maine beer goblet. Stephen King-themed appetizers were served in the garden, along with birthday cake.
Judging from the crowd's reaction I don't think anyone was expecting King himself to show up...but show up he did! I got to meet one of my fave authors so that was the highlight of the trip for me!
We topped the birthday celebration off with a guided tour of Stephen King's house.
Photo credit: Fancy Pants Homes
The SK Tours Derry, Maine tour visits visit locations of inspiration, books, movies, & discuss the generous philanthropic donations the Kings have made to the “Queen City,” Bangor, Me.
(The King home is private property and is not open to the public.)
The tour lasts 2.5 hours, our guide Jaime was a walking encyclopedia on Stephen King and the tour costs $62.50 per person.
I could scarcely believe we'd already spent 1.5 of our 2 days in Bangor! We both wanted to spend more time in Bangor so wrote off the following day's trip to Orono and stayed in Bangor instead.
Bangor City Forest
Bangor City Forest is to Bangor what Central Park is to New York City. Nestled right in the heart of the city, this enchanting oasis offered a much-needed escape from the hustle and bustle.
The main trail, a picturesque one-mile loop, was perfect for a refreshing bike ride. For those seeking a longer adventure, the Bangor City Forest also offers the East-West trail, a five-mile route that caters to avid cyclists.
DAY 18: BANGOR TO OLD TOWN
Old Town is 20 minutes from Bangor.
Penobscot Indian Island Reservation
The Penobscot Indian Island Reservation is a rich and vibrant area located on the Penobscot River. As you explore, immerse yourself in the culture and history of the Penobscot Nation. The reservation is home to various cultural events and historical sites, providing a unique insight into Native American heritage.
Things to do on the reservation:
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Penobscot Nation Museum – A small but powerful museum showcasing tribal artifacts, traditional crafts, and historical exhibits.
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Penobscot River Canoe Trips – Paddle along ancestral waterways used for centuries for travel, fishing, and trade.
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Indian Island Bridge Walk – Scenic views of the river and access to Old Town.
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Penobscot Tribal Farm – A working farm promoting food sovereignty and traditional agricultural practices.
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Penobscot Nation Powwow – A vibrant annual celebration of dance, music, and community (seasonal).
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Fishing and Wildlife Viewing – The reservation includes game preserves and rich biodiversity.
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Traditional Craft Demonstrations – Learn about basket weaving, birch bark canoe making, and moccasin crafting.
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Old Town Canoe Factory Tour – Nearby, this historic site connects to the tribe’s canoe-making legacy.
Penobscot Indian Island Reservation, Indian Island
Canoeing the Penobscot River
Photo credit: Mahoosuc
You can walk along the Penobscot River or drive a scenic drive along it but we rented a canoe for a half day from Skyline Kayak Rentals to canoe it. The Penobscot River is full of quiet coves, wildlife sightings, and scenic stretches perfect for a relaxed cruise or a photo-worthy adventure that you won't see if you're walking or driving. You can paddle north toward Bangor for city views and historical riverbanks, or head south toward Orrington and Bucksport for peaceful wilderness vibes.
If you're driving the scenic byway, there are plenty of places to pull over for photo ops. Interpretive signs along the drive help share the history and environment of the area.
If you're walking along the river walk, you’ll encounter benches where you can rest and take in the sights. The scenery changes with the seasons, offering a different kind of beauty throughout the year.
The river walk offers fantastic photo opportunities, especially at sunset when the sky transforms into a palette of colors.
Orono Farmer's Market
Italian never tasted so good before!
DAYS 19 & 20: BANGOR BACK TO PORTLAND
We loaded up and began our 2 hour drive back to Portland. Actually, Old Orchard Beach which is 20 minutes from Portland. We'd found at fantastic RV resort, Sun Outdoors.
It had a heated pool and hot tub and a $1 fare trolley that ran every 15 minutes between Old Orchard Beach and the RV resort - which made going to the beach super easy and inexpensive.
There was also a splash pad, basketball court, playground, community firepit, laundry facilities and restrooms/showers.
I didn't think it was possible to get tired of eating lobster, crab and seafood but turns out it is after nearly 20 days of it!
We decided to hit up the nearby Orono Farmer's Market to get ingredients to make my homemade spaghetti sauce, side salads and some bread with which to make garlic bread.
In addition we got 20% off our fall stay. 8 Cascade Road, Old Orchard Beach
However, if you wish to spend days 19 & 20 in Portland to see things you didn't get to see at the beginning of your road trip, that's perfectly fine too! Tailor the itinerary to suit your needs.
We had a long haul home ahead of us so planned to spend days 19 and 20 being beach bums and just resting up.
Having had our fill of seafood, we found a little gem of a place that was a nice break from the overpriced restaurants on the Old Orchard main strip, called Ocean Jade Kitchen. Chinese fare.
The big portions were scrumptious and filling, the drinks super inexpensive and nearly every entree on the menu was $13.95.
Both the owners and the server went out of their way to make sure everything was to their customers liking.
All orders are prepared individually so everything is freshly made.
47 E Grand Ave, Old Orchard Beach
DAY 21: LEAVE PORTLAND & HEAD HOME
