Glacier is my favorite national park due to how rustic it is and the abundance of wildlife within the park.
However, if you're going to visit Glacier you need to watch the video below due to new ridiculous, overreaching regulations to even enter the park now or post photos/videos of the park on social media - a federal offense now.
You will now need a time entry vehicle reservation in addition to your park pass.
INFORMATION ON VEHICLE RESERVATIONS HERE
You can get a vehicle reservation below.
Because it's now so difficult to get into Glacier, what I would recommend doing is bringing your passport along and if you can't get into Glacier, head up into Canada to explore nearby parks up there.
Glacier National Park’s northern boundary lies just south of Canada, with the Chief Mountain Border Crossing only 45 miles (72 km) from the park’s St. Mary entrance. This close proximity makes it easy to visit both Glacier and Canadian parks in a single trip.
I'd use that as a fall back on plan if you can't get into Glacier.
WHEN VISITING GLACIER
Whether you're looking for challenging treks, backcountry camping, a scenic drive or family-friendly hikes, Glacier can easily check all of those boxes and more. But Glacier is also wild, spread-out, sometimes unpredictable and usually without cell phone service or internet so you need to be prepared.
Everything in Glacier is rustic...and I do mean rustic.
Most people fly in to Glacier.
American Airlines, United, Delta, Southwest and JetBlue are among the major domestic carriers adding flights to several cities in Montana, especially Bozeman (BZN) near Yellowstone National Park, and Kalispell's Glacier Park International Airport (FCA), the main gateway to the park.
Cash prices can be high in peak season, so if you want to use airline miles to get to these airports, consider booking through a partner airline.
For example, LifeMiles can be a great way to book United-operated flights from just 7,500 LifeMiles each way.
Alaska, Allegiant, American, Delta, Frontier, JetBlue, Sun Country and United all fly to Kalispell.
Several airlines also fly into Missoula, Montana (MSO), which is about a three-hour drive to Glacier. Alaska, Allegiant, American, Delta, Frontier and United all have flights to Missoula.
You could also fly into Spokane International Airport (GEG) in Washington, though it's a four-hour drive to the park. Another option is Canada's Calgary International Airport (YYC), which is about a three-hour drive to the park.
Consider which park entrance you intend to use. The West entrance is the busiest entrance and usually has long lines to get in. The East entrance is not as crowded and I really think the scenery in that area is better.
ACCOMMODATIONS
From a budget conscious standpoint your best bet is to stay a bit away from the park itself and plan on driving to the park each day.
There is lodging within the park but you will not have AC, TV, cell phone reception or WiFi and you will pay between $200 and $400 per night. Many of the lodges have existed for more than a century so keep that they are older buildings in mind and don't let your expectations get the best of you. Remember too that in park lodging fills up very quickly.
This will show you park accommodations from grand hotels to budget motels inside the park.
I elected to stay 35 miles from the East entrance of the park in Kalispell, at the Hampton Inn. (I belong to Hampton Honors so could use my points to help pay for my lodging.) I booked a King room with fireplace and wet bar, regular starting rate currently in the off season is $180 per night. In tourist season that room would start at $355 per night.
Amenities included a very nice breakfast, indoor pool and hot tub, an in facility store, an airport shuttle, free WiFi, microwave and mini refrigerator in room and a fitness center. The room was clean and comfortable and the staff wonderful. Parking was free and plentiful. I couldn't have asked for more for under $200 per night. The Kalispell Hampton Inn gets 2 thumbs up from me.
The other option you might want to check into is vacation home rentals, especially if you're a large family or traveling with a group.
Photo credit: Summer Hull/The Points Guy)
Not only can it be a more economical way to book lodging than multiple hotel rooms, but you'll also have the gift of a full kitchen, which can easily save a family of four or five around $100 per night, given food prices in the area.
But travelers searching for a deal will likely have better luck with a vacation rental. Airbnb, for example, has plenty of properties, even for travelers who want something unconventional such as a traditional log cabin,
glamping-style tent or a treehouse.
Travelers on a tight budget can also look for accommodations in the surrounding areas of Bigfork, Columbia Falls, the Flathead Lake area, Somers and St. Mary.
PARK TRANSPORTATION
The one thing I do want to caution you about is rental cars. Rental cars are in short supply around Glacier and in Montana in general. So you want to book your rental car as far in advance as possible.
RED BUS TOURS
Photo credit: Xanterra
The red buses are vintage vehicles from the 1930's so don't expect the comfort of a modern car. But with their roll back tops they're perfect for sightseeing. And given the twists and turns in the park's roads it's nice to have someone else doing the driving.
The buses run on the eastern and the western sides of Glacier so you could book two tours on one visit. Like everything else, they book up fast so plan well ahead of time.
Tours range from half-day ($68 for adults, $34 for kids) to all day ($104 for adults, $52 for kids).
FREE SHUTTLE
Photo credit: Billings Gazette
Glacier National Park offers free shuttle service along the Boing-to-the-Sun Road, providing convenient access to key areas of the park from July 1 through Labor Day.
The shuttle operates on a first come, first served basis and is completely free of charge. It is wheelchair accessible and accommodates bicycles.
You can find all shuttle information here.
There are also hiker's shuttles that connect to the free shuttle that cost $14 for adults and $7 for children and depart from Swiftcurrent Motor
Inn, Many Glacier Hotel and St. Mary Visitor Center.
Sun Tours offers bus tours of the park from several spots including the Blackfeet Reservation, which borders the park on its eastern side. The Blackfeet called Glacier "The Backbone of the World," and the company is owned and operated by Blackfeet and Assiniboine Sioux tribe members who share their perspectives on the park's history.
Daily service is offered from the Apgar Visitor Center in West Glacier, the Glacier Park Lodge in East Glacier, the Glacier Peaks Hotel in Browning and the St. Mary Visitor Center.
The most fun option of all:
Photo credit: Amtrack
Amtrak's Empire Builder offers a 2.5-hour train ride that departs from Whitefish every morning at 7:41 a.m. and makes stops in West Glacier, Essex and East Glacier Park before returning in the evening, departing East Glacier at 6:45 p.m. Prices start around $26 each way. Or, you could splurge and pay hundreds of dollars each direction for a sleeper cabin.
I'd drive from Kalispell the 15 miles to Whitefish and take the train to East Glacier. Here's a video that will give you an idea of what this train ride is like.
Right now, Amtrack is having a flash sale ($600 off) on multi day train trips from various cities to Glacier Natl. Park. For next year I'm considering a 5 day Milwaukee to Glacier round trip from $1369. Included are a sightseeing trip of Glacier Park, 2 nights' hotel accommodations, a 3 day car rental, Roundtrip Amtrak in Coach accommodations from Milwaukee to Whitefish. July through September.
If you decide only to ride the Whitefish to Glacier trip, be sure to check Amtrack's Discount page!
There are numerous fare discounts available.
PREPARE FOR BEARS
When I was a kid about 10 years old my family was getting ready to visit Glacier Park. I found a magazine lying on our coffee table and picked it up. I came across an article about a boy named Smitty Parrot who'd just been mauled by a grizzly bear in Glacier Park. The magazine showed a graphic photo of Smitty after being mauled. He didn't resemble anything even looking like a little boy he was so ripped apart.
To this day I can see that photo clearly in my mind.
I don't fear bears normally. We have them all over up here and I've helped raise bear cubs.
Photo credit: MSN
I've had encounters with wild black and brown bears and have no fear of our bears.
But the grizzly? You'd have to be an idiot not to be wary of them, especially on their own turf where they can be territorial. Unlike brown and black bear, grizzly can be very unpredictable in their behavior and attack for seemingly no reason.
The first thing you need to do when entering Glacier is either rent or buy bear spray and know how to use it. Generally speaking brown and black bears don't desire human contact and will do their best to avoid it. But all bets are off when it comes to the grizzlies, Your best defense besides the bear spray is to make as much noise as possible to alert bears you're in their territory and NEVER RUN. The bears will see you as prey to be chased if you run. Do not go into Glacier without bear spray!
IN PARK ATTRACTIONS
Glacier is THE park for hikers and backpackers due to its numerous trails but if you're not into hiking and backpacking there's still plenty to see and do.
If you are pushing a stroller or using a wheelchair then do the flat Trail of the Cedars, which is located at the base of the trail to Avalanche Lake. This is a 1-mile loop that's perfect whether you want to push a stroller, need wheelchair access or are simply looking for an easy stroll with ample shade and seating.
Trail of the Cedars Photo credit: Summer Hull/The Points Guy
Another of the easier trails is Three Falls Trail.
Parking can be difficult to find in this area but short hike (just over a half-mile to the first waterfall) and is right by a big parking lot with picnic tables. The trail parallels a lake and brings you to Baring Falls, making it a very doable hike for people who aren't up for a multi-hour adventure. Go 2 more miles in and you'll hit St. Mary's Falls.
At the West entrance is another easy trail, John's Lake Loop. This is an easier 2-mile-long circuit that includes time in the forest as well as a bridge crossing and great views of McDonald Falls.
The historic Going-to-the-Sun Road has long been one of the park’s most popular destinations. It stretches over 50 miles through some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in North America.
The National Park Service offers FREE several self guided audio tours to all different parts of the Road.
Mac OS users can download the files from the iTunes Store.
You can also purchase a self guided audio tour of Glacier Natl. Park here for $17.
There are also the North Fork, Goat Haunt, Many Glacier and Two Medicine areas to explore. These areas are separated by several hours of driving.
BOAT TOURS & WATERCRAFT
The Glacier Park Boat Company offers both boat tours of several lakes within Glacier Park as well as watercraft rentals. This is a third generation family run business that's been operating Glacier boat tours since 1938. They offer tours of Lake McDonald, St. Mary, Two Medicine and Many Glacier.
BICYCLING
While bikes are allowed on the roads of Glacier, the best time to go if you want to ride Going-to-the-Sun Road without cars is likely in the second half of May and the first half of June, when it's often open to cyclists but not vehicles. There aren't any dedicated bike lanes or large shoulders.
Nonetheless, biking is a great way to see parts of Glacier. Visit Glacier Guides Inc. to rent either regular bikes or E Bikes. Prices range from $35 per day to $165 per day for an E Bike and they have several styles of bikes available.
RAFTING
Montana Raft offers half, full and multi day Class II and III whitewater rafting trips as well as float trips.
Be advised that rafting reservations do not include an entry reservation ticket for the Going-to-the-Sun Road, because you do not have to enter the park to access the river. This is true for all rafting reservations in the area.
Check out their plan page for some really great information.
Plan on booking online and in advance.
VISIT APGAR VILLAGE
Apgar Village sits on the shores of Lake McDonald and has a variety of gift shops, a nature center, bike and watercraft rentals, a couple of ice cream shops, a cafe and even a place for guided horseback rides.
(The Apgar picnic area is a great place to launch your kayaks, canoes and paddleboards if Apgar Village feels a little too crowded. It's located a short distance east of Apgar Village but before you reach the campground.)
The gift shops here offer some of the best variety of souvenirs in the park. Eddie's Café is a good spot to grab a meal - they serve breakfast with omelets, pancakes and even breakfast cocktails. For lunch and dinner, you'll find sandwiches, burgers, fish and chips, and an assortment of grain bowls.
While in Apgar you'll want to visit the Nature Center. It's FREE.
Photo credit: NPS
The nature center features interactive activities for kids: children can feel a grizzly bear's fur, listen and identify birds by their "songs" or create their own puppet show. Educational displays detail plants found in the park and teach about the habitats of the vast array of wildlife. Ranger-led talks and other programs are held just outside the cabin.
Recent travelers raved about the nature center specifically calling out the ranger-led talks that were informative and done by enthusiastic, young park rangers. The center is free to access and open daily from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. from mid-June to late August. For more information on the center and ranger-led activities, visit the NPS website.
DINING
Montana isn't exactly known for haute cuisine and fine dining, especially within the park itself but there are plenty of cafes and restaurants. The problem is eateries are often a fair distance away from where you are in the park.
I found the easiest thing to do was have breakfast outside of the park, then pack a picnic lunch for within the park. And then there's the fact many restaurants are only open seasonally. I always had dinner outside of the park, usually in Kalispell or near Kalispell.
Your best bets for dining within the park are Eddie's in Apgar village, the Ptarmigan Dining Room at Many Glacier Hotel or Russell's Fireside Dining Room at the Lake McDonald Lodge. However, the last two are expensive.
Outside of the West entrance are plenty of places to eat, both cafes and restaurants.
IN KALISPELL
I accidentally ran across The Spot. I was shocked no one seemed to have heard of it. They have the best donuts, biscuits and breakfast sandwiches I've ever eaten in my entire life. They specialize in small batch donuts and biscuits made by hand, Their buttery brioche-style donuts are made in a process that takes 24 hours, resulting in a light and airy donut that melts in your mouth.
51 Woodland Park Dr, Kalispell
THE DESOTO GRILL
I loved the vintage atmosphere of the DeSoto Grill the minute I walked in the door. The decor was kind of like walking into a huge vintage flea market.
I'd describe the food as Rockabilly BBQ and it's delicious, especially the brisket. Nothing fancy about the DeSoto Grill but there doesn't need to be given the quality of the food. They specialize in BBQ such as smoked beef brisket, pulled pork, St. Louis ribs, chicken breast, and hotlinks, plus burgers, sandwiches, mac and cheese, and a selection of beer and wine. Dogs are welcome on the patio.
It's my favorite restaurant in Kalispell. 227 1st St W, Kalispell
BONELLI'S BISTRO
Bonelli's Bistro specializes in Italian Mediterranean soups, pastas, paninos, sub sandwiches and they have an excellent variety of salads.
They serve lunch and dinner.
They also serve beer and wine.
Service was warm and welcoming, the food top notch. Patio dining is available and parking is plentiful.
It's a little bit pricey but not overly so. You get what you pay for.
38 1st Ave E Kalispell $
HIMALAYAN KITCHEN
Authentic Indian Asian food, ingredients sourced from the Himalayan region. $$-$$$
I got hooked on their Himalayan Combination Biryani
(at right) and Garlic Naan.
Also their Chicken Coconut Korma which is boneless chicken cooked with coconut milk, tomato, onion, cashew nuts, raisins and Himalayan herbs.
Himalayan Kitchen offers lamb, fish, Tandoori, vegetarian, chicken, prawn, and naan specialities.
The portions are very large, the environment is quiet, clean, and relaxing and the waitstaff provides excellent service.
It's a nice divergence from Kalispell's diner food.
Himalayan Kitchen serves lunch and dinner.
1250 US Hwy 2 W, Kalispell
Photo credit: Himalayan Kitchen
Chicken Coconut Korma Photo credit: Himalayan Kitchen
It's a shame the government has made it so difficult now to visit Glacier National Park because it's a rather unique National Park, as rustic and breathtaking as it is. Everyone should be able to see it at least once without jumping through government hoops and overreach to see parks we pay for with our tax dollars!