My first trip to San Francisco was as a teen, when I was into the whole hippie movement. Unfortunately, my ultra conservative parents weren't so I never got to explore that aspect of San Francisco. I returned a second time as an adult on a part business, part pleasure trip and I had a whole new perspective on San Francisco, having long left the hippie movement in my rear view mirror.
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What I love about San Francisco is the diversity of its many neighborhoods, each of them having a different vibe.
BEFORE YOU GO
First and foremost, no matter what the weather is like at the start of the day, BRING A WARM JACKET WITH YOU!
I spent my first trip to SF feeling like a human popsicle. The weather can turn very cold in an instant! You're not going to emjoy SF if you're shivering uncontrollably the entire time - as I was.
Check into City Pass and Go City and see if they'd be economically feasible for the things you want to see and do.
With the original (not the new C39) City Pass you can bundle attractions you want to see.
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Groupon is currently running a deal for 20% off the price of the pass and it will save you 46% on prepaid admission to 4 must see attractions.
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There's also a Go City Explorer Pass available for $10 less than the City Pass and you choose between 2 and 5 attractions to visit. (1 more attraction than the City Pass allows)
TRANSPORTATION
It’s no secret that having a car is difficult in San Francisco. With numerous parking laws and minimal parking spaces, getting a ticket—or even towed—is common. San Francisco is only 7 square miles by 7 square miles but when walking it, it seems about 10 times that size so you want to know your options for getting around without a car:
Often I'd take my bike along traveling as it was a simple solution to getting around but you want to think twice about doing this in San Francisco, unless you're an Olympic athlete. The hills in San Francisco are extremely steep and personally speaking, I wouldn't even attempt to try to ride my bike up some of those hills unless I wanted my mode of transportation to become an ambulance.
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SF has a great public transportation system and using it to get around wasn't that difficult.
BARGAIN ALERT: If you’re taking multiple transit rides, a much better value is the one-day Muni Passport. For just $13, you get a full day of unlimited Muni rides, including all the cable car lines, the F-line historic streetcars on the waterfront and Market Street, the Muni Metro subway trains, and all Muni buses. It’s available at those kiosks and ticket machines at the cable car terminals as well as on the Muni Mobile app. The one-day $13 Muni Passport costs just $5 more than a single cable car ride. (There are 3-day and 7-day Passports available as well.)
For a detailed description on how to get around San Francisco, consult the Tour Guy Guidebook.
ACCOMMODATIONS
San Francisco is officially divided into 36 different neighborhoods. Where you book your accommodations will depend on what vibe you're looking for within those 36 different neighborhoods.
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SF can be a bit tricky for visitors to decide where they should stay. There are 6 neighborhoods in SF you should focus on when looking for accommodations:
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Nob Hill
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Financial District
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Hayes Valley
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Union Square
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Pacific Heights
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Nob Hill
Nob Hill is an area full of restaurants and things to do, and is close to the bustle of downtown San Francisco. If you’re looking to stay in a 5-star hotel with many attractions nearby, consider Nob Hill when you’re deciding where to stay in San Francisco. However, Nob Hill is at the top of a steep hill so if you have walking/mobility issues, this might not be the best place to stay for you.
I love that it's right next door to Chinatown and near many highly rated restaurants. Had I not been on a half business on my latest trip, I would've stayed in Nob Hill at the Fairmont.
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Reasonably priced accommodations to consider:
Fairmont San Francisco
Ritz-Carlton
Petite Auberge
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Financial District
If you want a truly bustling city feel while in San Francisco, the Financial District (or “Fi-Di,” as it’s affectionately called by locals) is the place to be. Very much a city/business district vibe. It is also located close to the Ferry Building and the Embarcadero Waterfront.
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Reasonably priced accommodations to consider:
Hyatt Regency
Four Seasons Hotel San Francisco at Embarcadero
Omni San Francisco Hotel
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Haynes Valley
​This is one of the more hip, trendy neighborhoods of SF, that's centrally located in the city. Boutique shopping and lots of trendy restaurant and bar options.
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Reasonably priced accommodations to consider:
The Grove Inn
Chateau Tivoli Bed & Breakfast
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Union Square
If you like the hustle and bustle of fast paced city life and shopping til you drop, then Union Square is for you. It's also the transportation hub of the city so getting around is a breeze.
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Reasonably priced accommodations to consider:
The Westin St. Francis San Francisco on Union Square
Orchard Garden Hotel
Hotel Nikko
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Pacific Heights
Pacific Heights is farther away from the action and mostly a residential neighborhood, so it's great for those who don't like busy metropolitan. Still, it's only a short bus ride from the action and it's full of quaint restaurants and cafes.
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Reasonably priced accommodations to consider:
Hotel Drisco
Laurel Inn
Monte Cristo Bed & Breakfast
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I was in SF on business so since the convention was being held in Union Square's Beacon Grand that's where we stayed. Oddly enough, it was the same hotel I'd stayed in during my first visit to SF but back then, it was called the Sir Francis Drake Hotel.
I had a Grand King room at $342 per night but once you add on the 6 different SF and CA fees and taxes to that, you're at $401 per night.​
That included breakfast each morning served in the Post Room.
Plus Union Square is the heart of San Francisco and the Beacon Grand is in Union Square so its location is in the heart of everything at 450 Powell St.
ATTRACTIONS
San Francisco is only 7 miles square, but it's packed with activities to delight outdoorsy types, art and culture lovers, foodies and curious wanderers of all ages. San Francisco offers so much more than its iconic landmarks.
And there's plenty of free attractions to visit:
Explore Crissy Field and the Presidio Tunnel Tops
Stroll through Golden Gate Park
The park has several amazing museums and hosts all kinds of concerts and events. Before you visit, it's a good idea to map out what you want to see and do as it will likely take you more than a day to see everything.
See the Views From Atop Coit Tower
See the Golden Gate Bridge
Sample Tasty Bites At the Ferry Building Marketplace
See the Palace of Fine Arts
Shop and Saunter Through Hayes Valley
Take A Picnic Lunch To Mission Dolores Park
Discover the Mission District
Visit Chinatown
Explore Haight Ashbury
Spend An Afternoon At Ocean Beach
Wander Through Japan Town
Relax On Baker Beach
See Yerba Buena Gardens
Hike Twin Peaks
Explore Little Italy
Explore Union Square
Stroll Through Fisherman's Wharf
OTHER ATTRACTIONS
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ALCATRAZ
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Having been in law enforcement and having worked in a maximum security jail, Alcatraz was really the only place I had a burning desire to see again in San Francisco.
Many tours are offered, most of them outrageously priced from around $100 on up and quite a few of them include another attraction you may or may not want to see.
This is the Alcatraz tour I'd recommend but it books up really fast and usually sells out so you want to book it as early as possible. Pricing starts at $47.95. Note that during the summer tickets to Alcatraz can sell out months in advance!
The tour lasts several hours and includes the ferry ride and everything you'd want to see at Alcatraz:
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Round-trip ferry service to Alcatraz Island admission to the Alcatraz Cellhouse
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Explore the windswept island and learn about its layered history through outdoor interpretive signs, a Discovery Guide island map, and exhibits.
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Access to outdoor historic spaces such as Eagle Plaza, the Recreation Yard, the Sallyport, and the Rose Garden
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Access to the New Industries Building, which includes a fascinating exhibit commemorating the 50th anniversary of the influential Occupation of Alcatraz by Indians of All Tribes
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The award-winning “Doing Time: The Alcatraz Cellhouse Tour" (Cellhouse Audio Tour)
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Admission to a new permanent exhibit “The Big Lockup: Mass Incarceration in the United States."
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Scenic vistas and iconic, close-up views of the exteriors of the Cellhouse, Building 64, Warden's House, Water Tower, Officer's Club and Model Industries Building
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Participate in Guided Interpretive Programs scheduled throughout the day​
Tips for visiting Alcatraz
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No matter how nice the day starts out, bring a warm jacket along! The weather in SF and especially on Alcatraz can change in a heartbeat.
The roads and walkways on Alcatraz are steep. The distance from the dock to the Cellhouse is approximately 1/4 mile (.4km) and the elevation change is 130 feet (40 meters), the equivalent of walking up a 13-story building. The roads and walkways are wide with several places to stop along the way to rest and take in the breathtaking views. Comfortable athletic or walking shoes are strongly recommended. If you have mobility concerns, please see Sustainable Easy Access Transport (S.E.A.T.) Tram information.
Please note: there are no wheelchairs available for loan either at Pier 33 Alcatraz Landing or on Alcatraz Island.
Rangers will be stationed around the island to assist visitors and answer questions.
Pier 33 Alcatraz Landing is the launch site to Alcatraz Island. The ferry ride from Pier 33 to the island typically takes around 15 minutes. Make sure you arrive at least 45 minutes before the ferry is scheduled to leave. Pier 33 is near Fisherman's Wharf.
If you really want to get spooked out, take the Alcatraz Night Tour. The night tour is different than the day tour, offering a more atmospheric and engaging experience.
For more details, you can check the official Alcatraz Night Tour website.
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RIDE A CABLE CAR
Riding the cable cars is an iconic San Francisco activity for out-of-towners and more than 9 million visitors ride the cable cars each year. Enjoy the unique vantage point and admire San Francisco's vibrant streets along the way. You might have to wait in a bit of a line to board, but it's worth it. If you want to try to avoid lines, try to board at one of the stops along the line instead at the beginning.
VISIT A JAPANESE TEA GARDEN
Within Golden Gate Park is a phenomenal Japanese Tea Garden. The garden, originally created as a "Japanese Village" for an international exposition in 1894, is the oldest continuously maintained public Japanese garden outside of Japan.
The 5-acre site features classic elements of a Japanese garden, including an arched drum bridge, pagodas, stone lanterns, stepping stone paths, native Japanese plants, serene koi ponds, a five-story pagoda and a Zen garden.
The newly refurbished tea house sits in the center of the garden, overlooking a south-facing pound and the lovely landscape. Inside is a custom-designed irorj, or farmhouse-style family table. The tea house serves tea and Japanese refreshments.
Tickets cost $18.75 for adults, $10.75 for youths ages 12 to 17, and $6.75 for children ages 5 to 11. Kids 4 and younger are free. There is also a free hour between 9 and 10 a.m. every Monday, Wednesday and Friday.
For more information, visit the official website.
CHINATOWN
Chinatown is my favorite part of SF - the friendly people, the culture, all of the color. Chinatown hosts one of the largest Asian communities outside of Asia, and is considered one of the oldest in North America. Chinese immigrants first started coming to California in search of fortune during the Gold Rush. After being driven out of the gold mines due to discrimination and restrictive legislation against Chinese immigrants, the Chinese moved to build businesses of their own in the area that is now Chinatown – one of the city's most visited neighborhoods.
The best way to experience Chinatown is to simply wander around the neighborhood. Chinatown isn't very big (about 24 blocks), so even a short stroll will likely get you to top spots in the neighborhood.
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Grant Avenue is the main thoroughfare, and the most tourist-heavy. The Chinatown Gate is here, as well as plenty of souvenirs shops. However, you should venture beyond Grant Avenue to get a sense for the real Chinatown. Foodies should pay a visit to the markets on Stockton Street. These markets are frequented by locals and feature a variety of ingredients you’ll likely see on menus around the neighborhood.
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If your stomach starts to rumble, stop at Great Eastern Restaurant for some Cantonese food.
649 Jackson Street.
The restaurant has a large menu, including several varieties of dim sum and everything we had was delicious.
Did you know that fortune cookies were invented in San Francisco? While in Chinatown, stop by the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory where you can watch the cookies being made and sample different flavors and toppings.
Chinatown is free to explore 24 hours per day, though individual business hours vary. To reach Chinatown, hop off the Montgomery Street Bart Station or the Market St. & Second Street Muni Metro Station, then walk a little more than a half-mile northwest. Several bus tours also make stops in the neighborhood, but for a more in-depth look at the area, consider a walking tour. For more information on Chinatown, consult the neighborhood's website.
Great Eastern Restaurant Dim Sum
Great Star Theater
While in Chinatown, catch a show at the Great Star Theater dating back to 1925, when it was built as a venue for Chinese opera performances.
These days it’s the only remaining theater in Chinatown, presenting everything from movies to fashion shows.
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Location: 636 Jackson St.
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FISHERMAN'S WHARF
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I've had both good and bad experiences at Fisherman's Wharf.
I will say do not eat at Alioto's. While dining there one of our party got sick, nearly passing out.
We told our waiter we needed help. He dumped the food on the table and walked away, giving us a disgusted look. Don't bother with Alioto's.
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However, if you want to do something fun for under $22 consider doing this Scavenger Hunt on the Wharf. The activity combines an "Amazing Race" challenge with a city walking tour: You'll solve clues and navigate the city streets while visiting top attractions such as Ghirardelli Square and Fisherman's Wharf. Pricing is per individual, but teams must book together to participate in the same adventure.
This is a smartphone-guided scavenger hunt.
The Skystar
While at Fisherman's Wharf ride the Skystar Ferris Wheel. Standing over 150 feet tall along the Barbary Coast Trail in Fisherman’s Wharf, SkyStar offers spectacular views of San Francisco and its Bay Harbor.
You can see North Beach, Russian Hill and the Telegraph Hill neighborhoods, to Coit Tower, the Golden Gate Bridge, the Bay Bridge, Sausalito and the notorious Alcatraz Island.
$19 per adult, Seniors and children up to age 12, $13. Children 2 and under free.
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VISIT THE WAVE ORGAN IN SAN FRANCISCO BAY
This is one of the weirdest attractions I've ever seen - and heard.
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The Wave Organ is a wave-activated acoustic sculpture located on a jetty in the San Francisco Bay. The concept was developed by Peter Richards and was installed in collaboration with sculptor and master stone mason George Gonzalez. Inspiration for the piece came from artist Bill Fontana’s recordings made of sounds emanating from a vent pipe of a floating concrete dock in Sydney, Australia.
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The jetty itself was constructed with material taken from a demolished cemetery, providing a wonderful assortment of carved granite and marble, which was used in the construction of this piece. The installation includes 25 organ pipes made of PVC and concrete located at various elevations within the site, allowing for the rise and fall of the tides. Sound is created by the impact of waves against the pipe ends and the subsequent movement of the water in and out of the pipes. The sound heard at the site is subtle, requiring visitors to become sensitized to its music, and at the same time to the music of the environment.
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It's one of those things you just need to hear...
FEEL WHAT IT'S LIKE TO BE IN AN EARTHQUAKE
If you want to feel what it's like to be in an Earthquake, make sure to stop by the California Academy of Sciences.
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Inside the "Shake House," you will get to feel the shaking similar to two of our largest earthquakes. The most famous is the 7.9 earthquake from 1906. The second is the 1989 Loma Prieta Earthquake (also known as the World Series Earthquake) that was a 6.9.
As a safety precaution, this exhibit is for those 4 years of age and older.
CRUISE AROUND THE CHURCH OF 8 WHEELS
What is the best thing to do with an old church? Why not turn it into a skating rink?
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That's what you will find at the Church of 8 Wheels. This restored Catholic Church now has a large open space for skating. The new owners added a touch of color, a spinning disco ball and a state-of-the-art sound system.
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The cool part is that you will also see remnants of this buildings past including its religious inspired stained-glass windows, some of the old pews and other religious symbols.
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Church of 8 Wheels welcomes everyone to their skating floor. They have specific times set aside for families and times just for adults. Check out their website for the best times to go skating.
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VISIT MUSEE MECHANIQUE
I could've spent all day at Musee Mechanique.
One of the last remaining links to San Francisco's oceanside Playland at the Beach amusement park, the Musée Mécanique is a unique hands-on arcade of vintage coin-operated contraptions of all kinds.
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The collection began when Zelinsky was just 11, and he's been amassing and trading machines ever since.
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Zelinsky's remarkable collection consists of over 300 mechanical entertainment devices, ranging
from full mechanical orchestras in which the instruments play themselves to antique slot machines.
Vintage peep shows titillate with flipbooks of hula dancers and other exotic treats, fortune tellers read tarot, and old-school photo booths still produce terrific black-and-white photo strips. In the center of the room, a huge diorama of a traveling carnival with a Ferris wheel and other rides has over 100 individual moving parts. A red, steam-powered motorcycle from 1912, built in Sacramento and possibly the only one in the world, is on display nearby.
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The museum is open 365 days a year and admission is free. It's located at Pier 45 at the end of Taylor Street - Fisherman's Wharf.
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VISIT THE 826 VALENCIA PIRATE STORE
Truly one of the weirder things to do in SF. Become a pirate at the 826 Valencia Pirate store. 826 is a nonprofit literacy program started by author Dave Eggers. They teach kids creative writing. They are also outlaws who run their own pirate store. You can visit the store and pick up all of the garb and gear that you’ll need to take to the high seas.
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826 Valencia is located (unsurprisingly) at 826 Valencia in the Mission.
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No matter what your interests are, you'll likely find it in San Francisco.