Ahhhh...the Big Easy. Where life is slow, the beignets are hot, Pat O'Brien's Hurricanes are always cold and lethal, and a mule named Killer has a bloodlust for pedestrians.
Life doesn't get any better than that. No wonder "Nahleans" is one of my favorite cities to visit!
As it happened, I was the IT manager for a printing company and my boss wanted to send me to New Orleans for a business seminar. The problem was, it was during hubby's birthday, I explained to my boss.
God love my boss: "Well, take him along! I'll pay his airfare round trip and your room is already paid for..."
I picked up the phone and called hubby.
"How would you like to go to New Orleans for your birthday?" I asked.
"Don't tease me. That's not funny!"
"I'm not teasing you, I'm serious. Steve's sending me to New Orleans for an IT conference. He'll pay your airfare round trip to go with me."
Hubby: "I'm hanging up now, I need to go pack!" CLICK - DIAL TONE
(I took that as a "yes")
We left Wisconsin in the mother of all snowstorms. We got more than a few odd looks as we trundled off the plane into 90 degree heat and 100% humidity in our down parkas and North Face Chilkat boots. We didn't care, we were where it was WARM. Okay, HOT. Okay, okay...SWELTERING.
I'd been to New Orleans before in July and honestly, expected it to be cooler in March. No, there is no cooler in March in New Orleans. Or any other month of the year for that matter.
ACCOMMODATIONS
I didn't have to fool with reservations. Steve had fooled with them for me and done a fantastic job at it, putting us up in Le Pavillion. No new, swanky, no personality, "take a number please" hotel chain for me! Give me the old fashioned hotel that oozes Southern hospitality and history like Le Pavillion did - at least until recently, when some nitwit decided to redecorate it in a contemporary French style that wiped out every bit of its antiquity and Old South charm.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it, I always say.
Gone too is the iconic breakfast buffet that was the length of a football field, replaced with (of all things!) a peanut butter and jelly bar! (Really? PB&J?)
At any rate...
Le Pavillion is in the CBD, a walkable distance from the French Quarter.
Unless someone who shall remain nameless (Looks around innocently) slams down too many Pat O'Brien Hurricanes far too quickly.
Then it's a crawlable distance from the French Quarter. Albeit at a much slower pace.
While it's more than tempting to stay right in the French Quarter, you'll save much more money staying somewhere in the neighboring CBD. (Central Business District) The St. Charles streetcar and bus both stopped right outside our hotel door.
Single rides cost $1.25, but if you'd like to hop on and hop off the trolleys a few times, consider buying a Jazzy Pass for unlimited rides:
A single-day pass costs $3, a three-day pass costs $8, a seven-day pass costs $15, and a 31-day pass costs $44.
Jazzy Passes can be used on any trolley line and on city buses, too. We bought two 3 day passes which gave us access to any trolley line plus the city buses and that worked out really well.
St. Charles street car
FREE & SELF GUIDED WALKING TOURS OF THE FRENCH QUARTER
Download a map from the New Orleans Convention & Visitors Bureau for a self-guided tour of the French Quarter, perhaps the most famous neighborhood in New Orleans.
There's a free walking tour of the French Quarter where you pay what you want. Sandy Hester has been doing these tours for 20 years as a licensed tour guide. She has a Master's degree in History and is really knowledgeable and interesting. The tour lasts 1-1/2 hours.
Sandy also conducts the Marigny/Frenchmen Street Stroll.
Tours By Foot is another pay what you want tour business that offers various tours.
TAKE A HORSE DRAWN CARRIAGE RIDE AROUND THE FRENCH QUARTER
One of the best ways to see the French Quarter and learn really interesting history about it you wouldn't learn otherwise is to take a mule drawn carriage ride. For example, do you know why French Quarter residents implanted glass shards in the top of their courtyard walls? To keep their daughters from sneaking out at night to meet guys and/or to keep guys from scaling the walls to get to the daughters.
We had an excellent tour guide whose mule was named Killer. Killer had one foot over the glue factory door, but when the tour guide yelled "PEDESTRIAN!" Killer would bolt straight for the pedestrian. Of course, he had Killer under control the entire time...but the pedestrians didn't know that!
I think it was one of the most entertaining and informative tours I've ever been on.
The drivers and their mules and carriages were parked around Jackson Square. You went up to them, paid your $10 and off you went. You did cover the entire French Quarter on the tour.
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Royal Carriages: Offers mule-drawn carriage tours through the French Quarter, providing an authentic experience with knowledgeable guides.
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Visit New Orleans: Lists various horse and carriage tours, including private rides and spontaneous options from Jackson Square.
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Good Old Days Buggies: Provides narrated carriage tours that allow you to experience the French Quarter in a unique way.
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History & Haunts Tour: A specialized tour that explores reported hauntings and legends in the area.
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Private Carriage Tours: Tailored experiences for small groups, allowing for a more intimate exploration of the city.
FREEBIES & INEXPENSIVE ATTRACTIONS
WANDER AROUND CITY PARK
Walking around New Orleans (or partying on Bourbon Street) can be exhausting, especially in the heat. Head to City Park to recuperate and explore 1,300 acres of oak trees, lagoons, biking and walking trails, lakes, and green space. The park is open year-round, seven days a week, and admission is free.
If you want to enjoy a really relaxing lunch break, pick up some Po' Boys and have your lunch in the park.
ENJOY A HURRICANE AT PAT O'BRIENS
Gourmets can't visit New Orleans without stopping by Pat O'Brien's for an authentic sweet rum drink, the Hurricane. The large souvenir glass for $13.50 is more than enough to split with a buddy. The staff will even pack the glass in a box to take home at the end of the night. Frequent live piano duels entertain patrons.
O'Brien's has a fantastic outdoor patio area in the back where you can sip your Hurricane.
WARNING: Hurricanes taste like Hawaiian Punch going down...but they pack one heck of a delayed wallop! Drink with caution and take it from me, don't slam one down and immediately order a second one!
VISIT ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL
St. Louis Cathedral, near the French Market and overseeing Jackson Square, is one of the oldest cathedrals in America still in operation; the site has welcomed worshipers since 1727. Venture inside to marvel at sculptures, painted ceilings, and stained-glass windows.
TRY A PO' BOY AND FROZEN IRISH COFFEE BRUNCH
Instead of choosing between a second cup of joe and an early happy hour, head to Erin Rose, an Irish pub known for frozen Irish coffee with chopped espresso beans sprinkled on top. A small but well-regarded menu of po' boys from Killer PoBoys includes a roasted sweet potato version for $11 and a seared gulf shrimp selection. Daily specials run early from 10am to 2pm, including mimosas and screwdrivers for $3 and those frozen Irish coffees for $4.
Places like Mother's Restaurant in the heart of downtown serve their famous po'boy sandwiches to tourists and locals alike.
Locals recommend joints like Johnny's Po-Boys, Killer Po-Boys, Acme Oyster House, and Verti Marte in the French Quarter for great sandwiches and deli fare. If someone finds themselves in uptown New Orleans, they should visit Domilise's Po-Boy & Bar to try their sandwiches (they've been a family-owned restaurant since 1918).
EXPLORE A VOODOO SHOP
The French Quarter is peppered with voodoo shops playing off the the tradition that originated with West African slaves and refugees from the Haitian Revolution. Stop by the small New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum for a quick tour. Enthusiasts can join a name-your-own-price walking tour to explore more voodoo temples and learn more about its history.
We visited Marie Laveau's shop which was really interesting.
WATCH A FREE CONCERT AT LAFAYETTE SQUARE
In the spring, catch the free concert series Wednesday at the Square. The Young Leadership Council, a nonprofit civic organization, puts on 12 three-hour concerts from March to June. In addition to hearing local bands playing jazz, rock, funk, swamp pop, and Latin rhythms, visitors can enjoy browsing the works of artists who set up nearby to sell their work.
SHOP THE FRENCH MARKET
Take a stroll through the popular French Market before leaving the city. Among the snow cones (which locals call "snowballs" or "snoballs"), spiked smoothies, fresh seafood, and souvenir vendors, there are market stands selling shelves of Southern goodness. Bring home unique hot sauce flavors, gumbo mix, shrimp étouffée seasoning, or dirty rice mix.
DISCOVER GLASS BLOWING
Glass blowing is a meticulous, precise, and mysterious art. Head to GlassWorks in the city's Arts District, where the curious can buy a 30-minute mini-workshop or two-hour short course -- or view studios, works in progress, and daily demonstrations for free. I dated a guy who owned a glass blowing shop before marrying my husband. It's fascinating to watch and not nearly as easy as the glassblowers make it look. If you're going to do this in New Orleans heat, be aware a glassblowing shop is much hotter than the outside temperatures.
TAKE A FREE HISTORY TOUR
Follow a ranger from the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park and Preserve on a riverfront history walk. Rangers share stories on the beginnings and history of New Orleans on these hour long walks Tuesday through Saturday mornings. Twenty-five first-come, first-served tickets are given out at 9 a.m. at the park's French Quarter Visitor Center.
SHOP THE CRESCENT CITY FARMER'S MARKET
very major city has at least one farmers market, and New Orleans is no exception — but this one dates back to 1779. Shop for flowers, organic goods to snack on, or even fresh food to cook at the Crescent City Farmers Market, which runs every Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday at different locations. There are often demonstrations and lessons in Southern cooking, some from famed local chefs.
TAKE A SPIN AT THE CAROUSEL BAR
The Carousel Bar and Lounge, inside the impressive Hotel Monteleone, is a popular place to stop by for photos. The unique bar sits atop a merry-go-round and slowly revolves around the stationary bartender island. The elegant decor and glimmering bejeweled paintings in the lounge are also worth the visit. Cool down with a draft beer (starting at $10) or a specialty cocktail, like a refreshing Pimm's Cup, for $18.
GET A FREE ROUND OF CRAWFISH
Visit New Orleans during crawfish season, December through May, to enjoy crawfish boils -- heaping mounds of juicy, seasoned crawfish and plenty of hands-on nibbling. The Royal Street Inn Bar (also known as R Bar) throws free crawfish boils every Friday while the mudbugs are in season. There's a round of free crawfish at 6 p.m. and another an hour later for bar patrons (don't forget to tip the chef).
CONTEMPLATE THE AFTERLIFE WITH NEW ORLEANS SECRETS TOURS
of life in New Orleans. Learn about the numerous legends and myths of the city on one of New Orleans Secrets Tours, which offers a range of options including a paranormal experience tour, a mysteries of voodoo tour, and ghosts of the French Quarter tour.
The company also offers a variety of other tours that aren't spooky, including a French Quarter History tour, a New Orleans Cocktail tour, and a Beyond the French Quarter Tour.
Be sure to take a tour of St. Louis Cemetery #1. Tours By Foot offers a pay what you want tour of the cemetery. This is where voodoo queen Marie Laveux is buried. It was rumored that if you performed a short ritual that finished with make 3 chalk X's on her grave and made a wish, she would grant your wish.
My younger brother wished for money and walked out of the cemetery to find a $20 bill lying on the sidewalk. True story!
Marie Laveaux's grave
DEVOUR A MUFFULETTA AT CENTRAL GROCERY & DELI
A New Orleans staple, the muffuletta is a sandwich you definitely have to try when you're in the Big Easy. The hearty sandwich is layered with mortadella, ham, salami, provolone, mozzarella, and an olive spread made with green and kalamata olives, garlic, capers, onions, red wine vinegar and spices. You'll find the best rendition at Central Grocery & Deli, a favorite spot since 1906, which recently reopened.
CELEBRATE MARDI GRAS YEARROUND AT THE PRESBYERE
For those looking to avoid the crowds and high prices of visiting New Orleans during Mardi Gras, you can still learn about the vibrant history about the world-famous celebration at The Presbytère. Built in the late 18th-century on the site of the Capuchin monks' residence, this beautiful historic building is one the nine sites of the Louisiana State Museum.
Here you'll find a colorful and informative exhibit dedicated to Mardi Gras, complete with parade floats, costumes and music, as well as another exhibit in honor of the losses suffered by Katrina and other hurricanes. Admission is $7 for adults; $6 for seniors, students, and active military; and free for kids under 6.
SHUCK A DOZEN OYSTERS AT HAPPY HOUR
Craving oysters and a well-made drink? Head to Luke, which serves French and German food on mansion-laden St. Charles Avenue, called "The Jewel of America's Grand Avenues" -- but make reservations a few days ahead to take advantage of the happy hour specials. Every day from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m., oysters are $1.50 cents each and wine and specialty cocktails are half off. More oyster happy hours can be found on Eater.
GET ADDICTED TO BEIGNETS
Cafe Du Monde's coffee canisters are sold everywhere, but it's not a trip to New Orleans without a cafe au lait ($3.40) and beignets (French fried doughnuts, which sell in packs of three for just over $4.50). Visitors have to hustle to grab a table at this crowded cafe, but waiters and kitchen staff are quick and so is turnover. Get an icy caffeine and sugar boost for less than $10.
MORNING CALL COFFEE STAND
Morning Call Coffee Stand in City Park is the locals alternative to Cafe du Monde.
Regarded as the "most famous coffee drinking place" in New Orleans, order some fresh beignets alongside café au lait, a local coffee mixed with chicory and milk.
5101 Canal Blvd.
OTHER ATTRACTIONS
NATCHEZ JAZZ SUNSET & DINNER CRUISE
For our dinner on the Steamboat Natchez, we were offered a menu of: Steamboat Salad Salad, Louisiana Style Fried Fish, Bronzed Chicken, Top Round of Beef with au jus, Paddlewheel Pork Loin with Creole Mustard, Penne Quattro Formaggi, Pilot House Potatoes, Maque Choux, Creole Creamed Spinach and Bread Pudding for dessert.
We paid $58 apiece and I didn't think that was at all unreasonable for the dinner we had plus live entertainment.
Following dinner a jazz band took the stage and although I'm not normally a jazz fan, I really enjoyed that band.
The sunset was breathtaking as were the lights of New Orleans after dark. One could almost drift off to sleep in their deck chair, to the steady rhythm of the paddlewheel and the gentle lapping of waves against the side of the boat.
If you're going to visit the "Big Easy" then you definitely need to take a riverboat cruise.
Different options are offered. Visit their website for details.
AUDUBON AQUARIUM
Located on the Mississippi River adjacent to the French Quarter, Audubon Aquarium is consistently top ranked, voted as one of the top five in the country in the USA Today “10 Best” reader poll and ranked as one of the top things to do in New Orleans. The Aquarium transports visitors to an underwater world from the Caribbean, to the Amazon Rainforest, to the waters that give New Orleans its lifeblood: the Mississippi River and the Gulf of Mexico. With more than 3,600 animals from more than 250 species, including endangered species, such as African penguins, and rare animals, such as white alligators, the Aquarium offers you an experience you’ll never forget.
A pass will admit you to both the aquarium and insectarium. Website
NATIONAL WORLD WAR II MUSEUM
If you're military, knew somone who fought in WWII or just a history buff, you don't want to miss seeing the National WWII Museum. Follow in the footsteps of the citizen soldier in 360-degree displays that take visitors through key settings in World War II. The galleries serve as an immersive timeline and provide a servicemember's view of the war.
The National WWII Museum tells the story of the American experience in the war that changed the world—why it was fought, how it was won, and what it means today—so that all generations can understand the price of freedom and be inspired by what they learn. Through exhibits, multimedia experiences, and thousands of personal accounts, the Museum takes visitors on an immersive tour of World War II in every theater of war.
You can easily spend a full day at this museum there are so many different exhibits to see, each of them focusing on a different aspect of WWII. There's over 19,000 square feet of exhibit space housing 19 different exhibits on both the Pacific and European theaters. Plus they just added a new theater, showing a 3D movie presentation.
The basic admission adult ticket is $36. However, check here as there are discounts for certain groups.
DINING
There's no end of great places to eat in New Orleans, especially Cajun and Creole. There's way too many to list so here are my favorites:
CREOLE HOUSE RESTAURANT & OYSTER BAR
I can't visit New Orleans without having Crawfish Etouffee and/or Crab Cakes and the Creole House has the best of both that I've found.
This popular establishment is renowned for its authentic Creole and Cajun cuisine, serving up delectable dishes like gumbo, etouffee, and fried seafood platters. They also serve steaks.The restaurant has a laid back, welcoming vibe. It's comfortable and inviting. While not a fancy place, Neyow's is popular among locals, thanks to its relaxing atmosphere and delicious food.
I ordered the combination seafood platter which was delicious and cooked to perfection. John ordered the shrimp creole served on a bed of rice, which was also delicious. The Po-Boys are good as well.
3332 Bienville Street. Website
ELIZABETH'S RESTAURANT
Having brunch has become a worldwide tradition, especially during the weekend. Yet, only some people know that the original brunch was created in New Orleans, and it was initially known as the second breakfast.
Elizabeth’s Restaurant is famous among locals for its comfort food. The menu includes traditional dishes, redneck eggs with fried green tomatoes, French toast burritos and chicken.
601 Gallier Street.
The best time to visit New Orleans is from February to May when the weather is comfortably cool and the celebrations are in full swing. If you're not interested in Mardi Gras mania, plan to visit in December or January, when the city is calm and you don't have to worry about making hotel reservations a year in advance. To save on room rates, travel in the summer or fall. Just note that these seasons are known for their stifling heat and humidity, not to mention the threat of hurricanes – making travel insurance a worthy investment for those traveling to New Orleans during this time.