I'd always wanted to try cruising but I wasnt' sure ocean cruising was for me. I decided to try riverboat cruising instead. Boy, am I glad I did!
When trying something for the first time when traveling alone, I prefer to be on somewhat familiar turf - just in case. So I booked the Upper Mississippi River Cruise with American Cruise Lines.
I'd been in most of the port stops along this route, I had friends and relatives in some of the ports, which made driving to the Twin Cities, leaving my car there at a friend's house and hopping a quick flight to St. Louis a breeze.
Although well into their booking season, I managed to score a deal with American - $1200 off, including complimentary airfare and a hotel stay for the first night. Under $6000 for 9 days, 8 nights.
America’s waterways offer some of the most spectacular cruising experiences you’ve probably never considered. River cruises give you a totally different perspective on familiar landscapes, letting you drift past historic towns, wildlife sanctuaries, and epic scenery without changing hotels or sitting in traffic.
These floating adventures combine the relaxation of scenic cruising with the convenience of unpacking just once. What's not to like!
However, there are differences you need to be aware of.
THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN RIVERBOAT CRUISES & CRUISE LINE OCEAN CRUISES
RIVERBOATS ARE OBVIOUSLY SMALLER THAN OCEAN CRUISE VESSELS
Ocean cruise lines carry thousands of passengers. Riverboats carry on the average of 200 passengers.Riverboats are much more intimate and it's easier to make new friends on them due to the more social atmosphere. The small size of the boat means there is likely just one lounge (maybe two), one main restaurant with a couple of smaller dining venues, and a teeny-tiny spa, gym or computer center -- if there is one at all.
RIVERBOAT CABINS ARE SMALLER
River ship staterooms are smaller than their ocean ship counterparts, but they're not short on home comforts. River ships eschew inside cabins and all accommodations face the water. Newer riverboats are getting very creative, adding balconies and cleverly designing cabins to make the most of the space allotted. Many have panoramic windows that slide down at the touch of a button to create the feeling of a balcony, even though you can't actually step outside.
However, how much room does one need to lie down to sleep? Because that's about the only time you'll be spending in them. I found them to be plenty large, about the same as your standard hotel room.
THERE ARE MORE BUFFETS AND FEWER RESTAURANTS
If you've been spoiled by mega-ships where you can eat dinner in a different venue every night during a weeklong cruise, you'll need an attitude adjustment to embrace riverboat dining. Most ships have one main restaurant, and breakfast and lunch are often buffet-only (or buffet mainly, with a few items to be ordered a la carte) with a served evening meal. Most river ships have intimate secondary venues -- some vessels up to four -- offering alternative menus and private dining. A handful of lines now provide room service, previously a rarity.
To make up for having only one big dining room, ships get creative, spreading casual breakfast and lunch offerings on the bar in the lounge or setting up BBQs out on deck. Plus, the small passenger count and daily port calls mean the venues are better able to bring in fresh ingredients like fish and produce or offer regional specialties at mealtime.
One of Serenade's dining rooms
I didn't find the lack of restaurants at all a deterrent. There were other lounges, a cafe on a sun deck to supplement the restaurants.
ENTERTAINMENT ON RIVERBOATS IS LOW KEY
You won't find casinos, theatrical shows, ice shows, acrobat performances, karaoke, etc. on riverboats like you will on cruise ships. You will find a lone resident pianist or small ensemble on most ships, plus folk dancers, singers or other local troupes brought onboard for a quick evening show. During the day you can expect educational seminars and maybe the odd cooking demo, wine tasting or quiz. With river cruising the passing scenery and destinations visited are the main star of the show.
RIVER CRUISE ITINERARIES ARE PORT INTENSIVE
Unlike ocean cruises that have leisurely sea days, river cruises are port intensive, and you'll visit a new destination each day -- sometimes two in one day -- and up to four countries in a week. The ports, not the ships, are the key attractions, and you will certainly pack a lot of sightseeing into a week or two. This kind of travel can be exhilarating but also exhausting. Bring comfortable shoes, and don't be embarrassed to take a day off if you're getting overwhelmed. The tours might be included, but there's no obligation to go on all of them.
SHORE TOURS ARE MORE LIMITED AND CULTURALLY FOCUSED
The hallmark of the river cruise shore excursion is the walking tour, the kind where you follow a guide with a lollipop sign or umbrella as she rattles off details of a quaint city's history and culture, followed by limited free time for shopping or a quick drink in a local cafe. Although you can't expect a whole booklet of different shore excursions like you'd find on the open ocean, things are changing rapidly. In addition to the traditional walking and motor coach tours to castles and other places of interest, river cruise lines have introduced options for active travelers, such as guided bicycle rides, hikes, golf, kayaking and even running tours, along with activities including cooking and art classes, music recitals and trips to the ballet or opera.
MOST RIVER CRUISE SAILING IS DONE AT NIGHT
With the exception of particularly scenic stretches of a river, ull sailing days are a rarity. Generally, you're only on the move for a couple of hours a day. The majority of sailing is done during the late night or very early hours.
MORE ITEMS ARE INCLUDED IN THE FARE
While initially a riverboat cruise might appear to be more expensive than an ocean cruise, the fare includes more than a cruise ship, where you get nickeled and dimed the minute you step aboard. Fares will typically include wine, beer and soft drinks with meals, dinner in specialty restaurants, 24-hour tea and coffee, Wi-Fi and the standard tours in each port. Some lines offer all-inclusive fares covering all drinks, tips, transfers and even a hotel night before your cruise. With fewer onboard attractions to part you from your cash, you won't be racking up such an extensive onboard bill.
No drinks carry an automatically added gratuity. Plus, most river ships allow you to bring wine back onboard that you've bought in local shops and vineyards.
Serenade bar
YOU'LL DOCK RIGHT IN TOWN
Your riverboat will dock right in town, often a short walk or quick bus ride into the heart of the city. The only downside is that sometimes the berths are all occupied, and your ship will tie up to another ship, and you'll have to walk through the other vessel's lobby or sun deck to get ashore (this also affects your view; it can be shocking to open your window and see into another ship). It's worth noting that this is one of the aspects that makes river cruising challenging for wheelchair users and travelers with mobility issues.
DISTANCES BETWEEN PORTS ARE SHORTER
A riverboat might need 12 hours to sail a journey that would take you two hours by bus. While this means your entire trip won't cover as much ground as an ocean cruise, it does mean the cruise staff have a fallback plan if things go wrong. High water levels during very wet spells mean ships cannot sail beneath bridges, while very low water levels in dry periods means they can't sail at all. If this happens they'll put you on a bus to your next port -- and keep the itinerary going as planned. Larger lines also have contingency plans to switch passengers to a sister vessel further down the river to keep things running as smoothly as possible.
A NOTE ON FARES: Although the fares seem more expensive than on ocean cruise lines, they're really not when you take into account they're all inclusive or nearly all inclusive. You don't get nickeled and dimed the minute you board the boat like you do on ocean cruises. Our fare included three meals per day, all alcohol available all day, our complimentary shore excursions, 1 night hotel stay and complimentary airfare (on some cruises), ship to town transport and even tips for the boat crew.
TOUR OF THE RIVERBOAT, THE SERENADE
I was actually kind of stunned when I boarded the boat, even though I'd seen photos and a brochure. Believe me, they don't do the Serenade justice. This boat was LUXURIOUS - very clean and modern as well. A beautiful four deck high atrium with skyline floods the atrium lobby with light.
Because I'd booked after booking season had already begun, I had to settle for a more expensive Deluxe Balcony stateroom because that's all that was left. The rest of the staterooms had booked already. Bigger than what I needed being single, traveling alone...but WOW! I was impressed.
DINING
Different boats handle dining differently. On the Serenade the dining room was large enough to accommodate all 180 passengers at one time so we did not have assigned seating. We could sit wherever we wanted, with whomever we wanted. No reservations required.
Serenade's main dining room
It's true you will be up early! Our shore excursions began at the latest at 9 a.m.! Breakfast was only served until 10 a.m.
There were buffets but you could also order ala carte off a menu. Crew were very attentive to any special dietary needs and would bend over backward to make something exactly as you wanted it made for your dietary needs.
The food was fantastic and far better than I expected it to be.
A major focus is to offer local regional specialties using fresh ingredients sourced from as close to the ship as possible. Memphis barbeque, local artisan cheeses, gumbos, creole entrees and Abita beer from New Orleans are highlighted on the Mississippi cruises.
An example of the menu offerings:
APPETIZER
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Cajun Gulf Shrimp served atop of Creamy Polenta
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Garden Fresh Feta House Salad with Walnuts, Red Onion, Sun-Dried Cherries with a White Balsamic Vinaigrette
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Authentic Chicken and Andouille Sausage Gumbo
ENTREE
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Jambalaya with the perfect combination of Andouille Sausage, Gulf Shrimp, Chicken, Vegetable Trinity, flavored with Cajun Spices, and topped with Steamed Rice
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Pan-seared Beef Tenderloin & Stuffed Lobster Tail served with a Potato Puree and Vegetable Medley
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Pasta St. Charles with a delectable Creole Mustard Cream Sauce served over Penne with Louisiana Shrimp and Andouille Sausage
DESSERT
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Gooey Butter Cake: This St. Louis staple is a rich Yellow Cake baked with a layer of Cream Cheese Custard and served with Fresh Mixed Berries and Whipped Cream
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Creole Bread Pudding with a warm Whiskey Caramel
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Homemade Peach and Blackberry Cobbler topped with French Vanilla Whipped Cream
Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the dining room. Breakfast from 7:30 a.m. to 9 a.m., lunch from noon to 1:30 p.m. and dinner from 5:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.
A complimentary cocktail hour with full bar is hosted each evening before dinner in the Sky Lounge. Glasses, ice, mixers, coffee and soft drinks are available at all times. The hors d' oeuvres served at this cocktail hour were a huge platter of crab claws, shrimp cocktails and big platters of shrimp.
Cocktail hour was like a pre-dinner in itself! I met one gentleman who'd been converted to riverboat cruising who'd been an avid ocean cruiser - until on his last ocean cruise he paid $5 for can of Coke once port charges and gratuity were added on. On a riverboat cruise drinks and food are abundant and it's all been taken care of in your fare.
The Sky Lounge
Between meals, some of the lounges were stocked with snack bars where you could help yourself to a large selection of granola bars, chips, candy bars, cold sodas, juices, bottled water, coffee, tea and even fresh homemade cookies made twice a day.
A more casual breakfast and lunch are served in the open-air terrace Back Door Café on Deck 4 aft. Just order what you want and have it delivered to wherever you are sitting – inside or outside.
Back Door Café breakfast from 6:30 a.m. to 10 a.m. features scrambled eggs, breakfast pastries, yogurt, fruit and berry salad, smoked fish platter, bacon or sausage, oatmeal or grits and the daily creation breakfast sandwich.
For lunch, the Back Door Café serves from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. for fresh baked pepperoni or four cheese pizza, hamburger or veggie burger, grilled hot dogs, chicken salad wrap, albacore tuna salad wrap, tortilla chips and salsa and nachos with cheese sauce or chili.
Back Porch Cafe dining area
ITINERARY
The night before we began cruising, a hotel room was included in our fare. I was tired from the flight and the previous day so didn't do any exploring in St. Louis. I have oodles of cousins in that area so had pretty much seen St. Louis through the years.
The morning we were to set sail, we all gathered in the hotel lobby and were met by the riverboat crew, who transported all of our luggage to the boat. We were transported to the dock by bus.
If you've never seen St. Louis and wish to take a tour, there are a couple of audio tours available but I found an inexpensive guided tour or downtown St. Louis ($15 per person, children 12 and under free - cheaper than the audio tour apps) given by Landmarks Assoc. of St. Louis. Go here
Day 2 - Cruising the Upper Mississippi
As you embark upon your journey, enjoy a Welcome Aboard Reception with cocktails, hors d’oeuvres and entertainment. Meet the crew, your onboard experts, and fellow guests.
Following the reception you can relax on your private balcony and take in the sights or do so from the sun deck. (Stop by the restaurant at 3 p.m. for freshly baked cookies)
Day 3 - Hannibal, MO
If Hannibal sounds familiar, it was the boyhood home of Mark Twain. There were 2 complimentary tours offered - a tour of Mark Twain's boyhood home and museum or a tour of the Hannibal Local Loop. There were several pay excursions offered as well.
I chose the Hannibal Local Loop tour. A shuttle takes you to downtown Hannibal where you can explore on your own - including the Mark Twain home and museum, complete with the notorious whitewashed fence.
The complex includes five historic homes which include Twain's Boyhood Home, the Becky Thatcher House, Huckleberry Finn House, J. M. Clemens Justice of the Peace office, and the recently restored Grant's Drugstore.
Explore the Interpretive Center and the Museum Gallery which includes artifacts of the Clemens family and first editions. The Mark Twain Museum Complex also includes three gift shops, the historic Tom and Huck Statue, as well as seasonal free performances by Tom and Becky and Mark Twain himself.
LaBinnah Bistro and Laura Hawkins House – At this stop you will have access to the Laura Hawkins House. Laura Hawkins was a real-life inspiration for Becky Thatcher in the Mark Twain books. Across the street at the LaBinnah Bistro, you will be treated to a sweet and savory sampler along with a wine tasting experience to enjoy at your leisure. There will be guides on site to answer questions and share historical information.
The Bistro is a quaint, cute place.
I liked this tour because you conduct it at your own pace. You can take a leisurely stroll down Main Street, where charming boutiques, art galleries, and antique shops beckon with unique finds. If you want to do some shopping you can. You don't have to worry about transportation, the shuttle drops you off and picks you up.
Day 4 - Day of Cruising
You can relax with a good book and do your own thing or participate in offered activities. There are a variety of activities scheduled on board when the ship is underway, which vary depending on the itinerary and scheduled date. Enjoy destination-focused enrichment programs with special guest speakers who present topics related to the region and ports of call, including Art Classes, App-titude Classes (Tech Made Easy), Cooking Demonstrations, Mixology (practice of making great cocktails,) Trivia, Game Shows, and more.
I chose to do half and half - relax and do my own thing on the sun deck and participate in the trivia contest and games.
Day 5 - Muscatine, IA
We docked only 2 blocks from downtown Muscatine so it was only a short walk to go exploring. I chose the Muscatine Local Loop excursion option again - Explore the area at your leisure with their convenient motorcoach.
My first impression of downtown Muscatine was that I'd stepped back into the 19th century - and then I learned the Muscatine commercial district HADN'T CHANGED since the 19th century. Downtown is an eclectic mix of boutique shops, cozy cafes, and vibrant eateries.
The motorcoach also made stops at The Environmental Learning Center - Nested on 85 acres, the center offers numerous natural history exhibits featuring live reptiles, amphibians, and fish of eastern Iowa, and live raptor programs. The park also offers walking paths that wind past ponds, woodlands, prairie, as well as the Learning Center, Historic Old Barn, and Muscatine Arboretum.
I found the Environmental Learning Center extremely interesting.
Environmental Learning Center
The next stop it made was The Muscatine Art Center – This unique destination showcases paintings made by artists recognized around the world, fascinating objects connected to Muscatine’s past, beautifully crafted decorative arts, charming period rooms, and a Japanese Garden installed nearly a century ago.
Muscatine Art Center
The last stop the motorcoach made was The National Pearl Button Museum – Learn the story of the unique home-grown industry which dominated the economy of Muscatine from the 1890s to the 1950s. In the first decade of the 20th century, this small river town produced one-third of the world's pearl buttons, over 1.5 billion per year. Each and every one was cut from the shell of a freshwater mussel found in the Mississippi River.
Visitors will learn about clamming (harvesting), the art of button cutting, and the labor disputes that impacted the sector, culminating in the Strike of 1911, which had nationwide implications.
I'd packed a lunch to bring with me and ate it in Riverside Park, watching kids play in the
splash pad alongside a playground, boat ramp, picnic shelters, multi-purpose trails, and basketball courts.
The Park is located in downtown Muscatine.
Riverside Park
Day 6 - Dubuque, IA
I decided to forgo the offered tours as I have like a gazillion relatives near Dubuque so have seen Dubuque countless times. Instead I met one of my cousins for lunch at our fave place to eat in Dubuque -
Convivium is a nonprofit whose mission is to improve life through food. They grow most of their own food in their own gardens and restaurant profits help support their outreach programs like making and delivering casseroles to feed people in need.
They also allow those in need to harvest from Convivium's gardens, teach healthy cooking on a budget classes, etc.
However, if you've never been to Dubuque, the boat will offer you 2 complimentary tours - A Dubuque Local Loop tour or a Dubuque River Walk tour.
I highly recommend you take the Local Loop tour, which covers The Dubuque Museum of Art, the Fenelon Elevator and Dubuque Shopping District and finally, The National Mississippi River Museum & Aquarium.
If you're wondering what a Fenelon Elevator is...
(photo at left)
Long story short, a wealthy banker whose mansion was at the top of the hill got fed up with hiking up the hill as it cut into his lunch break too much.
So he built a little 'railcar' system that would take him to the top of the hill to his mansion rather than climbing the hill.
His little railcar system is the Fenelon Elevator and it goes up and down the steepest hill in Dubuque.
You have to try riding it at least once if you're in Dubuque. It's quite steep!
Day 7 - Winona, MN
Situated in southeastern Minnesota along the banks of the upper Mississippi River, Winona is a gem of a city renowned for its stunning bluffs, picturesque riverfront, and blend of cultures.
We had a choice from 3 excursions, the Winona Local Loop included what was offered in the other 2 excursions.
Running on a continuous loop, this guided exploration shuttle takes you from the ship to Winona's hot spots including history and art museums, historic places with beautiful architecture and stained glass, and to the heart of Downtown so you can shop, eat, and stroll at your leisure.
For starters, Winona is, to a large extent, a college town that does a fine job of blending the small-town appeal with just the right sprinkling of big-town conveniences. Winona is a riverside town, a setting that clothes the town with scenes and views that are hard to find anywhere else in the state. The stained-glass windows of Winona’s churches and banks; a glistening lake that’s beautifully fringed with paths for both walking and biking; and, of course, the bubbling glory and splendor of America’s second-longest river—all contribute to making Winona a stunning blend of old and new and the sweetest small town in this Midwestern U.S. state. In fact, Winona is sometimes called the "Stained Glass Capital of the United States.”
For an outdoors person, Winona has several enjoyable options: One of Winona Town’s most endearing features is Lake Winona. This is a favorite spot for water-based activities, including canoeing, kayaking, and paddle boarding. Encircling this beautiful lake is Winona City Park, which has within it a beautiful sandy beach, a rose garden (with a gazebo), and a number of picnic sites. This park also has lush playgrounds that are perfect for those with children, a skating rink that makes it a winter wonderland, and a golf course. There are also fields for both soccer and softball, while for hiking enthusiasts, Winona’s Lake Park boasts five miles of walking and biking trails.
Around the river, there are picturesque bluffs that are amazing to look at and admire though they are also wonderful spots for hiking. These include Sugar Loaf, perhaps Winona’s most recognizable landmark, and Brady’s Bluff. That’s without mentioning Garvin Heights, a breathtaking spot and an elevated one, from where one can take in panoramic views of the city of Winona and the expanse of the Mississippi River below.
Because it is a college town, most of Winona's residents are young and give the city a youthful, vibrant atmosphere.
Day 8 - Red Wing, MN
We had our choice of 3 excursions and I chose the one that was right up my alley - the National Eagle Center.
We have multiple pair of eagles on my lake, I have a couple of friends who are bird rehabilitators so I've learned a lot about eagles, held them and other wild birds, and even organized a loon rescue. I love eagles so this excursion was a no brainer.
The Eagle Center offers up close viewing of non-releasable bald and golden eagles. Learn about the ecology, biology, and natural history of these magnificent creatures in this excursion.
The Eagle Center also offers its own riverboat cruises that provide you with a unique floating classroom experience and the opportunity to view Bald Eagles and other native wildlife that call the Upper Mississippi River Valley home. These seasonal cruises are guided by our expert naturalists and give you plenty of opportunities to learn about eagle biology and behavior and the wide variety of birds, fish, and wildlife that you will observe and encounter.
Red Wing has plenty more to offer, however so I went touring on my own after visiting the Eagle Center.
One of the most iconic features of Red Wing is Barn Bluff, a towering limestone bluff that overlooks the city and provides panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Hiking trails wind their way to the summit, offering outdoor enthusiasts the opportunity to experience the area's natural beauty up close. And it's a fantastic photo op.
Barn Bluff
When hiking up to the bluff summit be sure you pay attention to the signs and GO LEFT or you'll find yourself at a limestone quarry.
Red Wing's Shoe Flagship Store & Museum houses a giant boot over 20 feet tall.
Or stroll through the city's historic downtown district, where beautifully preserved buildings house charming boutiques, antique shops, and art galleries.
While exploring downtown I stumbled on this great little shop, the Uffda Shop. If you're Scandanavian (my family is) you might want to check out the Uffda Shop.
Jewelry, crystal, clothing and home decor.
The shop sells Scandanavian originals. They don't have a huge selection of souvenirs and prices are a bit steeper than a traditional souvenir shop, but it was fun just to browse through the shop.
Day 9 - Arrive in St. Paul
You’ll disembark with convenient access to the Minneapolis/St. Paul airport. If you've never seen the Twin Cities, you can opt to spend a couple of more days on your own to explore, but your riverboat cruise ends here.
Would I riverboat cruise again? ABSOLUTELY! I like the fact you're not on rushed shore excursions like you would be on an ocean cruise. I also like the fact that there are far fewer passengers so it's easier to get to know people and make some new friends.
If I would make any changes to riverboat cruising, it would be to offer more physically active attractions that aren't historical, architectural or art-oriented and more FUN/adventure oriented.
But I'd definitely do riverboat cruising again!